Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/859549
74 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 AppaXXimento Masi Expertise Never one to rest on its laurels, the Masi technical team then took the traditional appassimento process to the next level by developing what the winery calls the "AppaXXimento Masi Exper tise." The new, trademarked process still makes use of traditional grapes and methods, including drying the fruit during the winter months using bamboo arele racks. However, the entire process is now implemented through a modern-design loft in the village of Gargagnago as well as in 13 lofts located in surrounding hill - side vineyards. The Gargagnago loft uses a special system called "NASA" (Natural Appassimento Super Assisted), devel - oped by the Masi Technical Group in the 1990s. "NASA" allows Masi to control temperature ranges, humidity, ventilation, airflow and weight loss of the grapes during the drying process. Conditions at the 13 hillside lofts are controlled by hand, opening and closing windows to promote natural ventilation and the absence of humidity. For Campofiorin, once the appas - simento process is completed, the dried fruit is soft-pressed and undergoes a long, slow fermentation at low temperatures. After primary fermentation, the wine is re-fermented with 25 percent whole grapes of the same varieties semi-dried for about six weeks. Malolactic fermenta - tion begins immediately after secondary fermentation. The wine is then aged in wood, a combination of 65 percent 90-liter Slavonian oak botti, and 35 per- cent new Allier and Slavonian 600-liter casks. A brief period of bottle aging com- pletes the process before release. As a result of this process, Masi Agricola's Amarones—Costasera and Riserva di Costasera, as well as the single-vineyard Vaio Armaron Serego Alighieri, Campolongo di Torbe, Mazzano—are considered bench - mark wines for the appellation. While it is always tempting to enjoy each new vintage of Campofiorin on release, the wine will more than appre - ciate with time in the cellar. Raffaele Boscaini credits the winemaking process for Campofiorin's longevity, saying, "The concentration of structure and acidity, together with enhanced alcohol levels, give Campofiorin an incredible aging capacity [20 years, easily], which as you know is almost impossible to achieve with the Corvina grape when fresh-fermented." To celebrate the 50th Anniversary of Campofiorin, a special label was designed and a unique series of 1.5-liter bottles was produced in a limited run of 1964 bottles (a play on the year it launched, of course). The winery has also been offering multi-vintage vertical retrospective tastings throughout the U.S. in major markets. I asked Tony Apostolakos, Masi Agricola U.S. Director, how the wines have been received. He responded, "Masi began the Ripasso category in the '60s with the creation of Campofiorin. Five decades later, we are telling the story to the trade and consumers by tasting library vintages dating back to the '70s. It has been incredible to open these wines and tell the story of how Campofiorin emerged into the global wine scene with an innova - tive winemaking technique that brought together Amarone and Valpolicella. The 50th Anniversary bottling of 2014 Campofiorin has given us the opportu - nity to reassert Masi not just as a pioneer of Venetian wines, but a producer who continues to evolve, always keeping in mind the use of traditional grapes and winemaking techniques. Everyone who has tasted these wines has been amazed at their ageability." Masi Agricola's 50th Anniversary edi - tion of Campofiorin continues to provide classic style, taste and innovation. The Masi Technical Group developed a special system called "NASA" (Natural Appassimento Super Assisted) to allow control of temperature ranges, humidity, ventilation, airflow and weight loss of the grapes during the drying process. PHOTO: COURTESY OF MASI AGRICOLA MASI IN THE MARKET The Somm Journal asked four prominent wine professionals, in different areas of the country, for their thoughts on the iconic Masi Agricola wines, namely the Campofiorin in light of its significant 50 th anniversary. Brahm Callahan, MS, Beverage Director of Himmel Hospitality Group in Boston "I have always been a fan of the Masi wines; they were some of my earliest experiences with wines created using the appassimento process. They showcased beautifully the effect dried grapes can have on the aromatic complexity of a wine. The multifaceted and exotic aromas found in Campofiorin and many other Masi wines made a lasting impression, and I readily seek them out today. We currently have a number of Masi's Amarone della Valpolicella's with significant bottle age on the wine list at Grill 23 & Bar, and the wines from the 1980s and 1990s are showing beautifully, largely due to both the painstaking attention to detail during winemaking at Masi and their utilization of the appassimento process. When young these wines are very forward and gener - ally need bold and flavorful food to stand up to them, but with bottle age they mel- low beautifully and can pair with a much broader range of dishes." PHOTO: JOSH REYNOLDS