Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/859549
{ SOMMjournal.com } 73 "When it comes to self- expression, effortless style and flair, nobody does it better or more naturally than the Italians," stated legendary fashion commen - tator Colin McDowell. The wines of Italy are no exception to McDowell's statement, and Masi Agricola is a prime example. For over 200 years, the Boscaini family has been producing Masi Agricola's Venetian wines, effortlessly blending traditional winemaking methods with modern innovations. This year, Masi Agricola celebrates the 50th anniversary of their iconic "Supervenetian" wine, Campofiorin, as they release the 2014 vintage. Indeed, Campofiorin has never been better—or more consistent. In the 30-plus years, I have known the wine; I have always been impressed at its consis - tency, regardless of the vintage. When Masi created Campofiorin's spe- cial blend in the 1960s, they did not realize what these methods would do for the Venetian winemaking community or the restaurant industry. "Campofiorin comes from a time when 'restaurant wines' were not branded wine labels; what was mostly offered were bulk wines. Campofiorin revolutionized wine for the dining table. With its special Masi label, it was an instant trendsetter in the Veneto region," explains Raffaele Boscaini, Marketing Director and Coordinator of the Masi Technical Group. Campofiorin took top-quality dry wine made from traditional Veronese grapes (Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara) and re-fermented it on the pomace (skins, stems, seeds) of Amarone. The innovative technique gave the finished wine greater richness, depth, and complexity, without harsh tannins. With the first release of Campofiorin in 1964, the "Supervenetian" category was born. It was an instant sensation. "It led the way for a new category of Veneto wines positioned halfway between the easy approachability of reds made with local grape varieties (Valpolicella and Bardolino) and the strength and originality of special wines like the Reciotos, both the sweet version and the dry (Recioto Amarone)," continued Boscaini. In the 1980s, through its ongoing quest to always deliver better wines, the Masi team refined the tech - nique for making Campofiorin by again refermenting a high-quality wine made from traditional Veronese grapes, but this time on lightly dried grapes from the same varieties. The results were—and continue to be—spectacular. Masi is no stranger to innovation. For example, for over 30 years Masi Agricola has been developing the appassimento pro - cess and is now most commonly associated with Amarone wine production industry- wide. For example, Masi Agricola is known for developing the appassimento process for over 30 years and now most commonly associated with Amarone wine production industry-wide. The appassimento tech - nique consists of harvesting optimally ripe grapes and placing whole clusters of fruit on bamboo racks called areles to dry over the winter months. During that time, the individual grapes lose 30 to 40 percent of their weight, while sugars and polyphenols concentrate. The drying clusters are sus - ceptible to botrytis at this stage, and this in turn increases glycerin content, lending a richer mouthfeel to the wine. Masi Agricola's 50th Anniversary edition of Campofiorin, replete with celebratory packaging, continues to provide classic style, taste and innovation. Masi Campofiorin Rosso del Veronese IGT 2014 (SRP $18.99) Sight: Deep ruby with purple. Nose: Compote dark and red fruit with potpourri, mace-spice, bitter herb, Amaro, earth, and wood smoke. Palate: Rich, luscious, and concentrated with soft tannins and a long, persistent finish. Drink: Enjoy now and over the next 12–15 years. Masi Costasera Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG 2012 (SRP $63.99) Sight: Opaque purple. Nose: Concentrated dark and red fruit compote with mace and aromatic spices, bitter chocolate, herb/amaro, earth, and oak spice. Palate: Focused, lush, and structured. Drink: Now and over the next 25-plus years. Masi Riserva di Costasera Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2011 (SRP $74.99) Sight: Opaque ruby purple. Nose: Complex and layered aromatics including dark fruit compote, dried fig and sour cherry, espresso, Amaro/bitter herb, brown spices, pronounced earth. Palate: Powerful, structured, and seamless. More wood apparent then on the nose. Drink: Now and over the next 25-30 years. PHOTO: JOSH REYNOLDS TASTING NOTES by Tim Gaiser, MS