The SOMM Journal

August / September 2017

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52 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 Heaven for Sauvignon Blanc The unique microclimate at Dollarhide is perfectly suited to Bordeaux varieties. There are over 200 acres of Sauvignon Blanc planted at Dollarhide—some eight to ten percent of all the grapes planted in Napa Valley. I asked Swain about the decision to focus on Sauvignon Blanc versus the more popular Chardonnay. She said, "Originally Chardonnay was the most widely planted white grape at Dollarhide, but the estate is far more suited to Sauvignon Blanc. We first planted Sauvignon Blanc in 1983 and found that it did extremely well with the soil profile and temperature range." Scholz echoed her comments, saying, "In the end, your property will provide what it wants to do; Sauvignon Blanc grows exceptionally well here." The primary clone of Sauvignon Blanc on the ranch is Clone 1—one of the primary California clones for the variety; it accounts for more than half of what is grown on the ranch and is St. Supéry's own field selection from this clone, which they began propagating 18 years ago. There are several other selections as well, including clones 317, 376, 530 and Sauvignon Musqué. I asked Scholz how the style of Dollarhide Estate Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc compares to the wines from New Zealand. "Our job is not to be New Zealand," he said. "I grew up in the Barossa and know the Marlborough wines well. We're not New Zealand—a small island surrounded by cold ocean currents. We're uniquely Napa Valley and Dollarhide Ranch. Sauvignon Blanc grows exception - ally well here and pyrazines are not part of the profile. Our wines emphasize purity of fruit with grapefruit and green lime character." The Estate Advantage During my visit to the ranch, Michael also stressed the importance of working with estate vineyards. He said, "When you're an estate brand you have the advantage of making decisions that will affect quality in the bottle. As a winemaker, I'm fortunate to have those choices." Swain echoed Scholz's comments, saying, "We're able to grow all our own grapes because of the magnitude of the prop - erty. We produce 100 percent estate wines because of Dollarhide Ranch and our Rutherford estate. Very few wineries in Napa are able to do that; I've counted around a dozen 100 percent estate wineries in Napa Valley, which is a fraction of the total when you consider that there are over 525 wineries in the Napa Valley Vintners Association." Sustainability is the overriding focus of viticulture for Scholz and Rafael Jimenez, the estate's Senior Vineyard Manager. In the vineyard a variety of cover crops—legumes, grasses and oats—is grown between vine rows during winter months to compete with weeds as well as to control erosion on hillside vineyards. Legumes also put nitrogen into the soil and, ultimately, into the vines when the cover crop is disked back into the soil. The legumes also pro - vide a habitat for beneficials such as ladybugs. During the growing season leaf, shoot, cluster removal and shoot positioning are used to control sun exposure to the fruit, while seeking optimal ripeness that ultimately translates to a specific fruit profile in the wines. Canopy management also reduces the use of fungicides and creates an optimum habitat for beneficial insects. A Sauvignon Blanc cluster in early development. The primary clone at Dollarhide is St. Supéry's own field selection of Clone 1, which they began propagating 18 years ago.

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