Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/859549
{ SOMMjournal.com } 51 At 1, 531 acres, St. Supéry's Dollarhide Ranch is one of the largest con- tiguous properties in the Napa Valley appel- lation. I've lived in San Francisco for over 30 y ears and have been to Napa Valley hun- dreds of times, but until recently had never been to the ranch. After seeing Dollarhide, I've come to believe that its distinct terrain and remarkable biodiversity make it unique in Northern California. There really is no other place like Dollarhide Ranch. In 1982 Rober t Skalli, the founder of St. Supéry, acquired the ranch after an eight- year search for vineyard proper ty. The site is located in what was then a largely unknown area in the nor theastern moun - tains of the newly minted Napa Valley AVA. The origins of the ranch date back to the late 1800s, when it was a cattle and horse ranch owned by one Andrew Jackson Dollarhide. At the time of purchase, there were no vines on the property—just cattle. It was Skalli's intent from the outset that the ranch, with its rolling hills, seven lakes and wealth of wildlife, would retain its unique environ - ment and not be completely developed to viticulture. Even today, only 500 acres are planted to vines. Emma Swain, St. Supéry CEO, says, "What makes Dollarhide Ranch so special is the fact that it's remote—so private, peaceful and diverse." Nothing has changed in that regard—or any other— since luxury brand Chanel purchased the property in October of 2015. Vineyards on the ranch range from 600 to 1,100 feet in elevation. The estate's considerable distance from San Pablo Bay results in less fog and marine influence, making for hotter days and cooler nights (often below 50 degrees) compared to Napa Valley proper. This temperature varia - tion creates a wide diurnal shift lending high natural acidity to both grapes and finished wines. Nearby Howell Mountain creates a rain shadow, allowing for less rainfall than adjoining areas. Drier conditions necessitate irrigation throughout the ranch. There are over 90 separate vineyard parcels on the ranch, ranging in size from two to 25 acres. Each parcel is irrigated separately. "Our philosophy," says winemaker Michael Scholz, "is to irrigate to keep vines at the edge of stress, yet healthy; we use a pressure bomb during the summer to look for indications of vine stress." Scholz has been with St. Supéry for over 20 years. He grew up in a century-old family vineyard in Australia's Barossa Valley and so has literally lived his entire life in wine. There are seven different soil series at Dollarhide Ranch with 13 variations. Most are comprised of clay-loam. Sauvignon Blanc thrives on deeper Maxwell Clay and Tehama Silt Loam soils while Cabernet Sauvignon is planted on the more meager hillside Bressa-Dibble Complex and other variations of clay-loam. St. Supéry winemaker Michael Scholz with his dog Angus (or Gus for short) in the winery's Dollarhide Estate Vineyard. by Tim Gaiser, MS photos by Alexander Rubin