The Tasting Panel magazine

August 2017

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august 2017  /  the tasting panel  /  87 Sartori di Verona 2015 Ferdi "One of the things we're good at in the Veneto is drying grapes, so a while back we started to play with Garganega. I call it the white Amarone and although this is not proper, this is the idea behind it. I wanted to create a wine that can age for years," said Andrea Sartori, family proprietor of Sartori di Verona. Added Luciano Castiello, "I have verticals of this wine that go back to 2005. Think of a Chenin Blanc that can age. This wine is amazing." Varietal: 100% Garganega. Region/Denomination: Veneto, Bianco Veronese IGT. Vineyards: Hillside vineyards of the Soave zone, east of Verona. Rocky, calcareous soil. Winemaking: Select hand-picked grapes are dried for 40 days to reduce water and concentrate sugar content and color. The grapes are then pressed, followed by short skin maceration at a low temperature. Part of the must is fermented in oak casks, the remainder in stainless steel. The wine then matures on its lees for six to seven months for added mouthfeel, flavor, and intensity. A minimum of four months bottle refinement follows. Tasting Notes: Citrus, jasmine, saline, herbes de Provence and Parmesan rind. —Derek Engles Butterscotch lite, mineral thread. Peanut, and echo of honey- suckle. Substantial, yet so delicate and lovely. —Meridith May La Peegola 2016 Vermentino, Maremma Toscana "One of the beauti- ful things about Vermentino is that it has wonderful nose, very similar to Albariño," said Luciano Castiello. Gabriele Pazzaglia added, "The proxim- ity of the sea to the vineyards conveys a nice complexity to this wine, greater than a lot of classic Sardinian Vermentinos." This Vermentino comes from vineyards located in the Maremma area, dominated by sandstone soil and friable rock. Varietal: 100% Vermentino. Region: Maremma. Winemaking: Following a very soft pressing, the fermentation takes place for about 13-16 days in temperature- controlled stainless-steel tanks. Tasting Notes: An effusive bouquet; kiwi, passion fruit and honeysuckle. —Nick Kaminski Guava, fresh grass, grapefruit and wild mint. —Kirk Peterson Fontana Candida Terre dei Grifi 2016 Frascati Superiore "Sadly," said Castiello, "Rome is growing and the vineyards within this appellation are disappearing as a result. If you like Frascati, not only ours, buy it so these hard- working people can continue to make this stuff." Added Giuseppe Roncoletta, Cellar Ambassador, "Fontana Candida was the first winery to bottle Frascati. We owe it to the many families and farmers that we support to keep the image of Frascati high." Fontana Candida is the largest producer of Frascati in Italy. Grape Varieties: 50% Malvasia Bianca di Candia, 30% Trebbiano Toscano, 10% Greco, 10% Malvasia del Lazio. Region/Denomination: Lazio, Frascati Superiore Secco DOC. Vineyards: Hillside vineyards in the DOC zone located in the province of Lazio, Rome. Potassium- rich volcanic soil. Winemaking: The grapes are gently pressed and vinified in temperature-controlled stainless steel. After fermentation, the wine rests on its lees for four months. Tasting Notes: Moderate aromatics; yellow apple, elderflower liqueur and chamomile tea. —Derek Engles Floral, medium plus body, great balance and finish. —Stuart Roy Derek Engles noses a side-by- side comparison while Miklos Katonah eyes his glass.

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