Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/856981
86 / the tasting panel / august 2017 Cerulli Spinozzi 2015 Pecorino Cortalto Although Enrico Cerulli, family proprietor of Cerulli Spinozzi, had to say goodbye to his fellow winemakers in San Francisco, he was well represented in spirit by how nicely his wines showed, and of course, by Luciano Castiello. "This old-vine Pecorino is one of the cleanest expressions of Pecorino from Abruzzo you will find," said Luciano. Grape variety: 100% Pecorino. Region/Denomination: Abruzzo, Colli Aprutini IGT. Vineyards: Colli Aprutini, Abruzzo, Italy. The soil is clay and sand. Winemaking: The wine is fermented in stainless steel. Fermentation lasts about a month and, contrary to most whites, there is no malolactic fermentation. This is done to preserve the bright acidity, which is key to this lovely wine. The wine then rests on the fine lees and is bottle aged for a minimum of two months. Tasting Notes: Salinity and acidity with an undercurrent of fruit flavors; yellow apple and some white flowers with lemony citrus notes. —Caleb Anderson Pretty and pungent; almond, meringue, lemon verbena and white flowers. Possible skin contact. —Meridith May Fontana Candida 2015 Luna Mater Despite the great collective experience and talent of this group of somms, Luna Mater had them stumped. "Here's a hint," said Luciano Castiello, "I've had vintages of this wine up to 22 years old." This great complexity is attributed to a winemaking process that is some- how both futuristic and traditional, as it is a blend of three very different wines. Grape varieties: 50% Malvasia Bianca di Candia, 30% Malvasia del Lazio, 10% Bombino, 10% Greco. Region/Denomination: Lazio, Frascati Superiore Secco DOCG. Vineyards: Select hillside vineyards in the DOCG zone in Frascati and Monteporzio Catone (Lazio, Italy). The volcanic soils are loose, porous and rich in minerals. Winemaking Handpicked grapes are divided into two lots. One is cooled before pressing to maintain aroma; the other is fermented on the skins in small Acacia bar- rels to preserve varietal character. A subsequent harvest, a few days later, adds hand de-stemmed whole grapes to the must to enhance aromas and flavors. The wine is aged in bottle in a naturally cool and humid tufaceous rock cellar. Tasting Notes: Ripe pear, red apple skin, lilies and peanut shell. Medium body with slight phenolic bitterness. —Rose Johnson Lees on the nose but honey and ripe stone fruit over- rides; nice creamy texture. — Kat Thomas Banfi Piemonte 2016 Principessa Gavia Gavi Alberto Lazzarino, Directing Winemaker, Banfi Piemonte, quickly touched on the finesse it takes to get the Cortese grape to show a bit of fruit. Generally grown in the southeastern area of Piedmont, this particular Cortese comes from a rocky, clay and marl single vineyard. Grape varieties: 100% Cortese. Region/Denomination: Piedmont, Gavi DOCG. Winemaking: Following a rigorous selection of Cortese grapes, the clean must is gently pressed and fermented at a controlled temperature of 64˚F for 20 days before the new wine is clarified. Tasting Notes: Lemon and lime zest, Jasmine, nectarines and almond skin. —Rose Johnson Lean and elegant but unpretentious; a refreshing start. Not overly complex, simply great to enjoy, especially with a fresh salad. —Juan Lizarraga Alberto Lazzarino, Directing Winemaker, Banfi Piemonte.