Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/780573
{ SOMMjournal.com } 101 { sommcon recap } Banfi's "Extraordinary Tuscan Experience" Third-generation Banfi family proprietor Cristina Mariani-May makes her point while Master Fred Dame playfully loosens his tie. The Brunellos from the incredible lineup of Banfi wines at SommCon 2016 in San Diego. by Jessie Birschbach / photos by Michael Morse SOMMCON, NOW IN ITS SOPHOMORE YEAR in San Diego, has already grown by leaps and bounds. This growth became especially apparent to me in attending Banfi's Tuscan-centric seminar, also in its second year, simply because Master Sommelier Fred Dame and Banfi Vintners Co-CEO Cristina Mariani- May needed a bigger room this year—twice the size, actually. Either word had spread of the previous year's success, or the wine-savvy crowd deduced that they'd be drinking some of the best Sangiovese the world has to offer. In the latter case, their expectations would have been met, and then some. The lineup for the "Extraordinary Tuscan Experience" seminar included the Banfi 2015 La Pettegola Vermentino, Banfi 2013 Fonte alla Selva Chianti Classico Gran Selezione, Banfi 2013ASKA, Banfi 2015 Stilnovo Governo all'Uso Toscano, Castello Banfi 2011 Brunello di Montalcino, Castello Banfi 2011 Poggio alle Mura Brunello di Montalcino, Castello Banfi 2010 Poggio alle Mura Riserva Brunello di Montalcino and, gulp, Castello Banfi 1995 Brunello di Montalcino. During the tasting, the gracious Mariani-May dished out a big helping of Banfi legacy. Dame, of course, peppered the entire experience with humor, tasting commentary and an incredible amount of knowledge. There too, waiting in the wings in case Mariani-May or Dame had been stumped on a Banfi-related question, was Lars Leicht, National Director of Banfi's Cru Artisan Wines, a walking Banfi encyclopedia who can deliver the answers to your questions in English or Italian. Discussions ranged from Banfi's Italian and American history to Montalcino and its microclimates (Castello Banfi is located in the warmer southwest corner of the DOCG, where Brunellos tend to show a bit riper); from clonal research and variation (Banfi conducted an almost 20-year- long study on Sangiovese clonal variation with over 600 clones, identifying the best 15 and sharing them with the Italian government, and planting the best three for Brunello in their own vineyards) to vintage variation in Montalcino (2011 deserves more credit than it gets) and technological innovation (Banfi developed hybrid wood/stainless steel fermentation tanks so that the wines can receive the softening benefits of oak but retain the efficiency of stainless steel). One of the most interesting discussions arose around the current-day Brunello di Monalcino DOCG. Due to the high cost of land (one million euros per hectare) and lack of growing rights, it seems that now more than ever smaller producers and newcomers are less apt to declassify Brunello to make Rosso di Montalcino. Of Banfi, on the other hand, Mariani-May says, "We don't have that cost of land burning in our books, so we're able to really moderate our pricing." Dame would later carefully add, "To me, there are two varieties in the world of which I say, 'Just leave them where they are'—Nebbiolo and Sangiovese. We've made some noble efforts, but you just can't do this anywhere else in the world, especially for this sort of price."