Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/780573
102 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017 ALTHOUGH THE AGENDA PROMISED A discussion centering around climate, the suave Penfolds Winemaking Ambassador DLynn Proctor offered much more than that. In fact, we received an entire Penfolds background, readily embraced by the entire room, as Penfolds has a fascinating history. The global luxury behemoth is by leaps and bounds the most influential winery in Australia. Although first established in 1844, it would be Chief Winemaker Max Schubert's 1951 Grange, initially misunderstood, that eventually became recognized as "the world's most powerful expression of Shiraz," says Proctor. Later in the seminar, after following Max Schubert on his journey to changing Australian wine forever, the most compelling case example for climate variation was made with the Penfolds 2014 Bin 128 Coonawara Shiraz in direct compar - ison with the Penfolds 2014 Bin 28 Kalimna Shiraz. Both the same vintage, both obviously Shiraz, and although Bin 128 employs used French oak where Bin 28 employs used American oak, what really set them apart were their climates—and in fact, the climate had dictated the oak regimen. Proctor, as cool as the Coonawara mari - time climate itself, explained, "We love what Coonawara and the Limestone Coast does to Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon. We originally made this wine with used American oak Grange barrels. But eventually because of this cooler maritime climate, we realized we needed to use a subtler oak, so we switched to French, and not only French, but third- and four th-use barrels. We wanted to highlight the wonderful nuances of black pepper, game, prosciutto but yet still tar t plum, under ripe cherry." The warmer Barossa Valley, on the other hand, and its Penfolds 2014 Kalimna Bin 28 Shiraz is perfectly suited for the flashier American oak. Says Proctor, "Kalimna— meaning "beautiful" in Aboriginal tongue—is one of our famous monopole vineyards, purchased in 1945. One hundred seventy beautiful hectares. This fruit is buoyant; it's ripe, it's rich—mocha, chocolate, eucalyptus, dill—but not overripe and clunky or high in alcohol. We've actually never made a wine over 14.5% alcohol." The remainder of the lineup—the Penfolds 2013 St. Henri Shiraz from South Australia, Penfolds 2014 Adelaide Magill Estate Shiraz from the Adelaide Hills, Penfolds 2014 RWT Shiraz (Bin 798) from Barossa Valley, and Penfolds 2012 Grange Shiraz (Bin 95) from South Australia—all showed quite well. The RWT was a little tight and the Grange of course, a little young, but it was Grange for Pete's sake—no one was complaining! { sommcon recap } DLynn Proctor's Breakdown of the Penfolds Bin System "Everyone in the Commonwealth knows the bin system, but for Americans it's a little harder to under- stand. Why the bin system? Because back then, we didn't have Excel spreadsheets, so the way we kept track of inventory and location was by giving each of the wines a batch ID number. No rhyme or reason, really. Just because you have a Bin 707 Cabernet in 1964 doesn't mean you have a Bin 708 Cabernet the following year. So, for us, they were just locations. But I do agree it is difficult for buyers to under - stand. So here's my quick work around: Grange, even though it's Shiraz, is our Grand Cru blend; 389 is our Premier Cru; Bin 8 (now Max's) is our village-level or maybe lieu-dit quality. Bin 707 would be Grand Cru, Bin 407 would be Premier Cru, Bin 9, (now Max's) more like village-level or lieu-dit. Then there are other marketing speaks—for example, anything with an 8 in it contains Shiraz—but I find this is the simplest way to remember." Penfolds 2012 Grange Shiraz poured at the Penfolds SommCon seminar. Penfolds Ambassador DLynn Proctor at SommCon 2016 in San Diego. Penfolds Shiraz: A Study of Warm and Cool Climate by Jessie Birschbach/ photos by Michael Morse