Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/735312
54 / the tasting panel / october 2016 István's father was the youngest technical director in Tokaj during the regime. His orders were to plant for high yield, not for quality. "Every year we had to produce more and more; the average yield went up to 15 tons or even 25 tons," Mr. Szepsy confides. "Now our average is closer to three tons per hect- are." During this time, conventional farming with herbicides and pesticides were the norm. Recovery has been slow, and the Szepsys have worked tirelessly to bring about change. Part of their efforts have been in identifying the best vineyard sites, along with ongoing research in clonal selection. "The clonal names were lost, so my father started research- ing individual Furmint clones in 1998," explains István Jr. The process of weeding out the best clones has been a lengthy one; most surviving vineyards originated from massale selection, in which vineyards are propagated from multiple cuttings rather than one mother vine, resulting in many variations. This old method of planting is slowly changing. István walks me through six dry Furmint samples; he's looking for what he calls the "X factor." All of the samples were harvested on the same date and vinified in precisely the same way. The difference from one clone to another is striking. The first two we taste are slightly hot on the palate and show little in the way of minerality. An added problem: Many of the clones are highly susceptible to botrytis, an undesirable trait for the production of dry Furmint. By the time we arrive at the last sample, it's considerably more aromatic than the first five, with piercing acidity, amped-up energy and weight. The terroir shines through on the finish; it's almost granitic with a saline edge. "We only have 25 plants now," István smiles. Of the 140 clones they started with, they've narrowed it down to 25. The first dry Furmint wines emerged in 2000. Global warming had and will continue to inhibit botrytis. The Szepsy's aren't deterred by this—Furmint has shown itself to be a drought hardy grape and one that is slated to perform well with moderate drought stress and higher-than-normal temperatures. If anything, they expect plantings to dramati- cally expand. Aside from all of this, the wines are seriously impressive. In addition to the Szepsy label, István Szepsy Jr. is the head wine- maker at neighboring Szent Tamás winery. Over the course of four days, we tasted through the Szent Tamás portfolio, many of which have the structure and body to cellar well and to stand up to rich dishes. The more serious examples were aged in Zempléni oak and daringly served alongside grilled rack of lamb, veal and tri-tip. A second style, fermented in stainless steel, offers exciting possibilities. These wines are lighter and leaner, with trans- porting aromas of Asian pear, lemon zest and lilting herbal freshness. These expressive, crisp Tokaji Furmints have a profile that is more akin to an Alsatian Riesling. Terroir-driven and perfectly balanced, the Szepsy's departure from tradition is bound to usher in Tokaj's second golden age. István Szepsy Jr.'s MAD Furmint 2015 was just awarded Gold Medal at the New York World Wine & Spirits Competition 2016. István Szepsy Sr. gazes fondly at a map of the Tokaj region, a complex tapestry of soil types and microclimates. Interior of Mád Winery, along with a map of Szent Tamás vineyard parcels. Serious stones. Outcroppings of rhyolitic tuff in the Szent Tamás Vineyard. PHOTO: FERENC DANCSECS PHOTO: CHRISTINE HAVENS PHOTO: FERENC DANCSECS Crowned the "Wine of Kings and the King of Wines" by Louis XIV, the sweet wines of the Tokaj region rival the best Sauternes.