The Tasting Panel magazine

MARCH 10

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80 / the tasting panel / march 2010 Unlike most rum, cachaça is not made from molasses, but from freshly pressed sugarcane. The taste is sassy, grassy and herbal, with a clean refreshing aftertaste. It's a natural with lime, as in its signature cocktail, the Caipirinha ("the little country girl"). After vodka and soju, cachaça is the world's third-largest-selling spirit, and it's ubiquitous in Brazil. Here in the States, however, it's only just begun to make waves. Whereas ten years ago it was hard to find more than one or two brands even in the best-stocked liquor retailers, to- day there are upwards of two dozen available—and the number seems to grow weekly. Quality is also up, with many upscale brands being tar- geted at the sophisticated American cocktail drinker, and even wood-aged versions for those who prefer to sip their spirits neat. When I went to Brazil several years ago, American interest in cachaça was embryonic. My visit to a sugar- cane plantation and cachaça distillery deep in the rain forest convinced me that something was up with this unique spirit. Today, with Rio de Janeiro getting tapped to host the 2016 Olympics, it's a sure thing that cachaça—along with everything else Brazilian—is going to see a huge surge. How psychic do you need to be to predict that? CATEGORY REPORT Bossa ($28) Rich, composty and sweet with luscious, silky texture and loads of vanilla and spice. 90 points BOSSA INTERNATIONAL Cabana ($31) A lush, floral nose leads to complex notes of rainforest vegetation and a mellow, sophisticated and seductive finish. 94 CABANA CACHAÇA LP Cachaça 51 ($19) The granddaddy of cachaça brands; creamy and fragrant with smooth, soft, sweet herbs and clean, balanced fla- vors. 89 GEMINI SPIRITS & WINE Cuca Fresca Pure Gold ($23) Wood-ma- tured for a light amber color, this fresh yet classy cachça is redolent of wood, spice, herbs and smooth, peachy fruit. 92 CUCA FRESCA EXPORTS Sagatiba Pura ($30) Clean and racy with elegant structure and long, fresh flavors with lovely balance; amazingly smooth and without any roughness at all. 92 SAGATIBA USA Weber Haus ($40) Finesse and balance abound in this aromatic and elegant version, with lovely spicy-nutty notes and exotic wood tones. 92 JPV CO. A Few of My Favorite Brands The Caipirinha 1 small lime, cut into eighths 2 teaspoons superfine sugar ice cubes 2 ounces cachaça Place 7 lime sections in a rocks glass, sprinkle with sugar, and muddle until sugar dissolves. Add cubed ice and top with cachaça. Stir with a swizzle stick and garnish with remaining lime wedge. CachaCosmo 1½ oz. cachaça juice of half a lime ½ oz. triple sec 1 oz. cranberry juice Shake all ingredients in a cock- tail shaker and garnish with a lime wedge. Strain into a chilled Martini glass and garnish with a lime wedge. The Caipirinha is cachaça's signature cocktail, but the spirit can be use in a many other ways. Substitute cachaça for tequila or vodka for a Brazilian twist on your favorite mixed drinks.

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