Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/7240
diverse growing issues. "Barbera ripens evenly; Zinfandel does not. Barbera doesn't shrivel, and we have pretty good predictability as to ending alcohol; with Zin, it's a crap shoot," he says. However, as he points out, there is no driving winery leading the charge to promote Barbera. Dick Cooper, one of the best known players in the area agrees. "Barbera is knocking at the door; it just doesn't miss—it likes it here," though Sangiovese and Pe- tite Sirah are also potential rivals. But Cooper also acknowledges that Bar- bera, at least for him, is hard to grow and expensive. "We prune to 15 or 16 spurs to crown sucker 175 to 200 shoots." That's time and labor inten- sive. Viognier is easier to grow, and he routinely sells out of his inventory within four months. Just south in Calaveras County, the desire is less to create a signature grape and more to explore the diversity of the area. Twisted Oak and Hatcher Winery are two of the best producers competing for coveted shelf space and consumer interest. "We shouldn't have a signature grape," states Scott Klann, winemaker at Twisted Oak, who focuses on Rhône and Mediterranean varietals. "There's great diversity of soil strata, microclimates and elevation here. It's geological chaos." And that chaos helps growers with a wide diversity of varietals. "We can do fantastic Zins and Barberas, but we'd do ourselves a disservice by get- ting behind one or two wines," Klann says. Matt Hatcher, who produces about 10,000 cases agrees with a broader palate approach, and feels a signature grape is irrelevant. He produces everything from Barbera to Syrah, Malbec to Sauvignon Blanc. "Bordeaux varieties tend to be more fruit forward in Calaveras, rather than tannic and complex, so you can make an approachable medium- or full-bodied wine, which doesn't command that $50 price range." And as he points out, people are still searching for the next Cabernet. eats in the foothills As for food to compliment the wines of the region, Taste in Plymouth has become the de facto destination restaurant in Amador. Chef/owner Mark Berkner has amassed a slew of awards from across the U.S. for his thoughtful approach to seasonal wine country cuisine like Alaskan cod, foie gras and Colorado rack of lamb. Mark Berkner of Taste. Alchemy Market and Cafe, located in Murphy's in Calaveras, is a must stop for lunch or dinner. Chef/owner Jason Wright creates food that is universally delicate, from panko breaded sand dab tacos to mushroom and artichoke pizzas. He provides a long list of wines (with no corkage on Sierra Foothill wines) and 75 varieties of beer. Alchemy's Jason Wright. "I've said for years, when every- thing is said and done, Barbera may be better suited to Amador than Zinfandel," says Jeff Runquist of Jeff Runquist Wines. Matt Hatcher, who produces about 10,000 cases, feels a signature grape is irrelevant. march 2010 / the tasting panel / 75