The Tasting Panel magazine

MARCH 10

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march 2010 / the tasting panel /  63 Casa Valduga This smart estate, with accommodation and excellent restaurants, produces 1 million liters of wine per year, half of which is sparkling. It began to export in 2002. 2002 Gran Reserva Extra Brut Toasty and very Champagne-like; four grams/liter dosage. A good spar- kling wine. 2002 Nature Persistent mousse but not quite as fi ne as the Gran Reserva. Fresher and less toasty on the nose, though the palate is toastier. Without any dosage, the fi nish is unsurprisingly rather austere—but great with Gigas oysters from Florianópolis. Altamira Wine Distributors Vinícola Miolo Miolo is the slickest operation in the region and claims to be the largest producer of fi ne wine and méthode champenoise fi zz in Brazil. Michel Rolland advises on winemaking. Miolo Reserva Pinot Noir Rosy hues with a touch of amber differentiate this intriguing Pinot Noir from Brazil. Dried fruits and a searing acidity mark the palate, along with a round-up of fl avors that include mocha, strawberry and a touch of the tropical. Miolo Reserva Merlot That amber glow that we found in the Pinot is also found along- side ruby and royal purple in the Reserva Mer- lot. A serious side to this earthy red imparts notes of forest fl oor, tobacco and espresso. More ethereal notes shine through as well: ripe red fruit and a hint of coconut. Wonderful Ethnic Imports Lidio Carraro Established in 1998 and debuting on the market in 2004, this self-proclaimed "boutique winery" has a philosophy of "pure wine", according to marketer Patricia Carraro. No oak is used: "We are not against wood, but we want to show we can have excellent results with purity." Nor is there any fi ltering, micro-oxygenation or any other form of alchemy. SulBrasil 2007 Agnus Cabernet Sauvi- gnon Bright and fruity, if a little jammy at fi rst; medium-bodied and juicy, with some grip on the fi nish. Lidio Carraro 2005 Merlot Grande Vin- dima Tobacco nose; supple and juicy, with earthy fl avors beneath the sweet fruit; slightly rustic tannins, and the 14.2 percent alcohol shows. Otherwise good. TasteVino Selections The large Casa Valduga was founded in 1875. PHOTO COURTESY OF CASA VALDUGA Patricia Carraro of Lidio Carraro samples the winery's fruity Cabernet Sauvignon. PHOTO COURTESY OF LIDIO CARRARO

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