The Tasting Panel magazine

MARCH 10

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The Facts Commandaria is produced by the indigenous Cypriot vine varietals- Xynisteri, a white grape and Mavro, a red. The dessert wine's rich amber color is the result of the blending of these two varietals and its unique production process. Production begins with 10 days of sun exposure where grapes are placed on straw mats atop the 14 mountain village houses. The grapes are gathered and after slow-pressing, the sugar-rich wine ferments slowly until the process stops naturally. The wine can then be fortified with alcohol, if the winemaker desires. A minimum of two years of aging—in a fractional blending system called Mana, akin to the solera system in Spain—ensures mellow complexity and integrated flavors for which the Commandaria is prized. Redolent of dried fig, chocolate, coffee and quince, the wine has an alluring, brooding flavor that unfolds on the palate. Commandaria is protected by the European Union as a Designation of Origin product, making this dessert wine site-specific to the Com- mandaria region of Cyprus. Grapes are harvested only from qualified Appellation of Origin vineyards in the 14 mountain villages in the foot- hills of the Troodos Mountains. This distinguished certification means serious quality-control, resulting in a product of the highest standard. The romance The dramatic mystique and romance of Commandaria is almost un- precedented in the wine world. It is the oldest wine still in continuous production and is the oldest named wine in the world—it has been made in Cyprus since 800 B.C. Commandaria was a favorite among iconic figures like the Greek poet Homer, the Pharaohs of ancient Egypt, and even Antony and Cleopatra. Ancient Greeks worshipping the goddess of love, Aphrodite, attended festivals on Cyprus in her honor (Aphrodite was said to have been born in Cyprus), toasting the goddess with the luxuriant, elegant, romantic wine. Though Commandaria was prized among the ancients, its real hey- day began in the times of the Crusades. Crusading knights who oc- cupied the island in the 12th century were delighted with the famed wine, and Richard the Lionhearted himself, who married a Cypriot, is said to have served Commandaria at his wedding in the coastal town of Limassol, deeming it "the wine of kings and the king of wines." Rich- ard eventually sold Cyprus to the Knights Templar, who established a military fort called La Grande Commanderie near Limassol. Recognizing its value, the knights began producing significant quantities for export to Europe's royal courts and for supplying pilgrims traveling to the holy lands. At that time, the wine assumed the name of the region, named after the fort situated there. During this time, the first competitive wine tasting took place in Cyprus on behalf of Philip Augustus of France. Called the "Battle of Wines" and written about by French poet Henry d'Andeli in 1224, the event pitted wines from Europe and France against one another. The victor? Commandaria. Critical acclaim Commandaria's accolades continue to this day. It has been a gold medal recipient for dessert wines at global events, most recently named Best Late Harvest Wine at the Cellars of the World International Wine Competition held at the Ottawa Wine & Food Show, November 2009, and Gold Medal recipient by the distinguished Wine and Spirits Whole- salers Association of America, 2009. It was voted among the Top Ten Best Dessert Wines of the World by Wine Enthusiast Magazine and Best Value by Wine Spectator as well as receiving top scores from acclaimed wine sources. Wine lovers worldwide, from Canada to Europe and be- yond, are consuming more and more Commandaria with each growing year. Commandaria continues to be promoted to the North American market by EuroWines Cyprus Wine Association, which is composed of the four major wineries: ETKO, KEO, LOEL and SODAP, all of which represent 86% of Cyprus wine exports worldwide. Perhaps renowned wine expert Hugh Johnson said it best: "It is the classic dessert wine of Europe." Photo above right: La Grande Commanderie,Cyprus below: Petra Tou Romiou, Cyprus, the birth place of Aphrodite Special promotion 1g^`ca¸EW\S]T9W\Ua Commandaria, a luscious and sophisticated dessert wine from the Mediterranean island of Cyprus, has enamored discerning drinkers since ancient times and con- tinues to astound throughout the ages. It's an elegant apéritif and not only as an exciting addition to cocktails and food recipes. Paired with myriad foods like aged cheeses and figs, its an extra treat. However it's enjoyed, behind every facet of Commandaria... the production, the history and its place in the modern world... there's an intriguing story to be told.

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