The Tasting Panel magazine

MARCH 10

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20 / the tasting panel / march 2010 THE MESSAGE 20 / the tasting panel / march 2010  Basilicata comes to Manhattan I t's hard to get travelers south of Italy's "3P Tour- ist Triangle"—Pompeii, Positano and Paestum. So, the south, instead, came here. Producers of wines and food products from Basilicata arrived in New York last month to showcase their goods, promote their region as Italy's gastronomic up- and-comer, and pay homage to host and native son Lou Di Palo, fourth-generation proprietor of Di Palo's Fine Foods. Basilicata may never get the limelight, but there are several areas in which this middle child shines—its fi ne olive oils and cheeses are wonder- ful expressions of the land, and its single DOC wine, Aglianico del Vulture, is a true Basilicata original and one of Italy's great unknown grapes. Aglianico is just coming onto Italy's wine map. Grown on an inactive volcano, it's known for its berry profi le and full tannins that evolve to earthy dark fruit and velvety tannins in time. Top winemaker Riccardo Cotarella has worked with the variety, and if other such names turn their attention to this "Barolo of the South," Aglianico could be the next great grape that gets people traveling to this area. —Lana Bortolot Celeb chef and culinary personality Lidia Bas- tianich at her midtown restaurant, Felidia for a sampling of regional food and wine from the Italian wine region of Basilicata. Celeb chef and culinary personality Lidia Bas- PHOTO: LANA BORTOLOT PHOTO: MERIDITH MAY Lemon Gurus R osanna Zaretti left the Marche region of Italy 30 years ago, and has been living in Los Angeles ever since. She brought with her a recipe for limoncello and began to make batches with homegrown Southern California backyard lemons. When her son-in-law, James Carling, fi rst tasted Rosanna's distinctive liqueur, he prophesized, "One of these days we'll go into business together." Now, sourcing lemons from two ranches in Ventura Coun- ty—Petty Ranch and Limoneira—their Ventura Limoncello brand has emerged. Three years in bottle, this pretty, canary- yellow spirit (58 proof) is at the top of the list for our taste buds. Rosanna and her daughter, Manuella Carling, hand-peel each lemon and maintain quality control by instinct. "I can tell if this one or that was grown in a period of too much smog," attests matriarch Zaretti. "I have the ability to detect fresh- ness, inside and out." www.venturalimoncello.com Rosanna Zaretti and her daughter Manuella Carling of Ventura Limoncello. PHOTO: MERIDITH MAY We Root for Bradley Ogden's Wine Country Cuisine A t Root 246, our favorite new restau- rant in the Santa Ynez Valley, chef/ consultant Bradley Ogden holds some coveted truffl es. With him are famed wine- makers Morgan Clendenen (Cold Heaven Cellars) and Doug Margerum (Margerum Wine Co.); on the far right is Root 246 Executive Chef Johnny Church. The restaurant, located in Solvang, is a play on Route 246, the road that runs through the celebrated wine country valley. PHOTO: MERIDITH MAY We Root for Bradley Ogden's Wine Country Cuisine Country Cuisine A consultant Bradley Ogden holds some coveted truffl es. With him are famed wine- makers Morgan Clendenen (Cold Heaven Cellars) and Doug Margerum (Margerum Wine Co.); on the far right is Root 246 Executive Chef Johnny Church. The restaurant, located in Solvang, is a play on Route 246, the road that runs through the celebrated wine country valley.

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