The Tasting Panel magazine

June 2012

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Currently celebrating his tenth vintage as head winemaker, Wente says he's learned that the secret to working with the clone is to pick the grapes when there is a perfect bal- ance between the levels of sweetness and acidity, usually between 22 to 23 brix. The other important factor is the level of pH which provided the wine with a nice level of freshness. "You just can't fake pH," said Wente, who bottles four separate wines made with the Wente clone. The Popularity of the Wente Clone Continues Wente's Nth Degree and Eric's Chardonnays are made entirely from the Wente clone. other staff members at U.C. Davis ran special trials to separate variations of the clone.2 Some of the popular clonal selections planted in Napa Valley and Sonoma County were the main components used to make the Chateau Montelena 1973 Chardonnay, the wine that triumphed over France's most prestigious whites at the famous "Judgment of Paris" tasting in 1976. With success in the vineyards and fanfare from the media, the plantings of Chardonnay in California increased from 2,700 acres in 1970 to 45,000 acres in 1988.3 100,000 acres of the variety planted in the state4 is either Wente Clone 4 or special variations of its genetic cousins, including clones 5, 17, 72, 97 and the Hyde-Wente selection. 5 Carrying on the Tradition In comparison to the newer Chardonnay clones imported from France, the classic Wente clusters produce smaller berries with a high concentration of flavors. Its fashion- able profile often includes rich flavors and aromas of apple, pear, peach, apricot, Muscat and tropical fruits. Today, there are almost —a majority of which The Wente clone is used for the major portion of Wente Vineyards' Morning Fog and Riva Ranch Chardonnays. And depending on the site where the vines are planted, the clusters can also provide winemakers with natural nuances of fresh citrus, candied ginger, cracked pepper or nutty characteristics that add more layers of complexity to the finished wines. As a result, many distinguished wineries have sought out and planted cultivars of the old Wente clone, includ- ing Peter Michael, Spring Mountain Estate, Donum Vineyard and Kestrel in Washington. Some of the younger clones (commonly known as Hyde- Wente selections) are also favorites of maverick winemakers like David Ramey, Steve Kistler, John Koonsgaard and Andy Smith of DuMol. To keep the tradition alive, the Wente family farms nearly 850 acres of the clones at their vineyards in Livermore Valley and Arroyo Seco in Monterey County. According to fifth-generation winemaker Karl Wente, the success of the clone comes down to three impor- tant factors: the health of the vines, the quality of fruit and the flavorful taste of the grapes. "At the end of the day, I'm looking for the 'delicious' and 'feel good' factors the grapes can provide for complete sensory experience." Another fan of the clone is wine- maker James Hall of Patz & Hall Winery, who has worked with mate- rial planted at the Hyde Vineyard in Carneros for many years. "It's a clone that we pick at low sugar because it has so many flavors, a lot of mineral and texture, a low pH and a natural color that is off the charts" he said. "In my opinion, it's the fountainhead of all Chardonnay clones grown in California. In Sonoma County, Steve Sangiacomo and his family have the Wente clone planted in different blocks in their vineyards. According to him, newer plantings of the clone are in high demand by producers with a reputation for making sophisticated wines for consumers. "As a single clone, it has the greatest possibility of making a high-class wine." Vineyard blocks planted with the Wente clone can also survive for a long period of time. Celebrating his 66th vintage this year, Mendocino County grape grower Charlie Barra still works with the gnarly block of the Wente clone planted at his vineyard in Redwood Valley in the late 1950s. "When I wanted to plant new vineyards back in the 1950s, the Wente family, Robert Mondavi, Louis Martini and Christian Brothers all paid me more money per ton to work with the high-quality Wente clone," says Barra. "As a farmer, one of the smartest things I ever did was to follow their lead!" 1 Philip Wente 2 Nancy Sweet 2007 3 Wolpert et al. 1994; Robinson 2006 4 CDFA 2011 5 Nancy Sweet 2007 june 2012 / the tasting panel / 93

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