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Ferrari-Carano (Sonoma, California) Rhonda Carano, co-owner of Ferrari-Carano Vineyards and Winery, says that her family's estate has produced quality whites since its inception. "Our very first wine ever was a 1985 Alexander Valley Chardonnay which was hailed as one of the finest Chardonnays that year." The idea behind the winery's newer whites, Pinot Grigio and Bella Luce, is to appeal to a broader audience with an Italian twist. Carano believes that this fits perfectly with the greatest strength of white, which lies in the variety of possible food pairings. "It is truly the perfect wine to be enjoyed in the sum- mer. Drinkability and flavors go hand-in-hand with the casualness of summer entertaining." The refreshingly spicy Ferrari-Carano 2011 Pinot Grigio, Sonoma County ($17) features tangy lime juice, fragrant yellow apple and spicy orange peel on a medium-weight frame. The moderately honeyed Ferrari-Carano 2011 Bella Luce ($16)—the name means "beautiful light" in Italian—is a multi-varietal blend redolent of ripe green melon, tangerine, pineapple and lychee while the palate smolders with bits of apple pie and even more honey at the end. Many people believe that because Ferrari-Carano wines are sold throughout the country this is a large winery but, as Carano says, "That's the first misconcep- tion. We are still family-owned and are very much involved in the day-to-day operation of the winery, from our 20 vineyards in five appellations to style and blending, from marketing to distribution, including social media and web presence." Carano knows that the wine industry is continuously changing, "especially over the last ten years with the consolidation of wineries by large corporations and investment groups. Being an owner, I probably have a different take on what the future holds for our grandchildren than a winemaker. I can say for a fact that the quality of day-to-day experience makes the wine busi- ness rather appealing, but then, I've done it all my life." come the great sweet wines of Sauternes and Barsac, mixtures of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon produced from overripe grapes in a syrupy, full-bodied style. Moscato The Moscato variety belongs to the Muscat family as do Moscatel and Muscat Ottonel. Moscato shows best on its own, without food, but sweet versions pair excellently with dessert. Moscato grows in most vine-friendly cli- mates, including Italy, the Rhône Valley (where it is called Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains) and Austria (as Muskateller). Typical tastes are often sweet and always fruity with grapefruit and musk aromas. Pinot Gris/Grigio So versatile with food, Pinot Grigio is planted extensively in the Venezia and Alto Adige regions of Italy. Pinot Grigio is also grown in the western coastal regions of the U.S. and is called malvoisie in the Loire Valley and Pinot Gris in the rest of France. In Germany and Austria, Pinot Grigio is known as Ruländer or Grauer Burgunder and it is used to make pleasant, young, white wines. Similar aliases are used in the German-settled regions of Australia. Pinot Gris can produce crisp, dry wines with good acidity. Alsace Pinot Gris, often considered the pinnacle of this variety's expression, usually shows aromatic, fruity flavors that improve with a couple of years in the bottle. Gewürztraminer A very aromatic variety, Gewürztraminer is ideal for sipping but can also fit with Asian food, pork and grilled sausages. It is best known when from Alsace, Germany, the U.S. West Coast and New York State. Fruity flavors mingle with aromas of rose petals, peaches, lychees and allspice. Because of this spiciness, Gewürztraminer may not seem as refreshing as other dry whites. Riesling Dry Riesling goes well with fish, chicken and pork dishes. The wine's crispness works with tuna and salmon, while a high acidity can commingle with eel's smokiness and cuts through the layers of spicier Japanese foods. Riesling grows in almost all wine regions and is the classic grape of the Rhine and Mosel valleys in Germany. The grape expresses itself differently depending on the district and the winemaking, but should always taste fresh. Germany's great bottles are often created in a slightly sweet style that's combined with steely acidity for balance. Riesling from Alsace and the Eastern U.S. is also excellent, equally aromatic but typically drier. june 2012 / the tasting panel / 85