The Tasting Panel magazine

June 2012

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Tasting Notes by Deborah Parker Wong from the San Francisco edition of The Spanish Wine Cellar. Bodegas Habla "Habla del Silencio," Extremadura Rich, modern blend with nutmeg, graphite and cassis aromas and flavors, round and supple with bright finish. 50% Syrah, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Tempranillo. Castell d'Age 2011 L'Essència del Xarel·lo, Penedés Organic production with beautiful white peach aromas and crisp flavors, active with bright, clean finish. 100% Xarel·lo. Covides NV Duc de Foix Reserva Especial, Cava Handpicked blend that spends three years on the lees, aromas of mature fruit and brioche, pretty texture and dry finish. 60% Xarel·lo, 20% Chardonnay, 20% Macebo. Judith Hernaiz from Nocedal in Rioja was one of the several women enolo- gists at this year's Spanish Wine Cellar. introducing a new Albariño. "We are showing the wine here because we want feedback from the trade," she said. "We are always thinking of new prod- ucts, keeping a focus on the consumer." She added, "We are here representing that a Spanish wine can be global and compete with the global wine world." An obvious trend this year was the presence of female enologists, which Naelapaa says represents the new face of Spanish winemaking. Judith Hernaiz de Marcos is one such woman making a name for herself. She is a first-generation winemaker of her family-owned Nocedal, a 14-year- old winery in Rioja. Her distinction? Nocedal is woman-owned and -staffed. The wines are natural, unfiltered and traditionally styled with oak, full cherry, berries and spices. Though the competition in Rioja is stiff, Hernaiz said she didn't consider starting in an emerging region. "Rioja is my origin and my roots," she said. Though she acknowledged the some difficulties, she remained confident. "I have a good product and presentation." Naelapaa said winemakers such as Hernaiz will change the landscape, and will continue to provide new and exciting wines from Spain. "I think the advent of female winemakers signals a return of more elegant styles of wines. The pendulum is already swinging that way," she said. Finca os Cobatos 2011 Godello, Monterrei Slopes of sandy quartz in Galicia's warm, dry sub region of Monterrei produce a regional benchmark for the variety by Grupo Pazo do Mar. 100% Godello. POLANER SELECTIONS Bodegas Príncipe de Viana 2007 Albret "La Viña de Mi Madre" Reserva, Navarra Artisanal blend from the largest producer in Navarra emphasizes varietal fruit flavors with concentrated mid palate. 95% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot. Bodegas Loa 2007 Loa, RiojaPerfumed and concen- trated with clean notes of vanilla throughout, unclas- sified Reserva quality from the Rioja Alavesa. 100% Tempranillo. CASALBOR WINES AND SPIRITS Bodegas Gardel 2011 Sauvignon Blanc, La Mancha Mango and tropical fruit aromas and flavors in this value bottling from the Cuenca sub region of La Mancha. Encomienda de Cervera 2009 Poker de Tempranillos, La Mancha Smoky, contemporary style from unique volcanic soils in La Mancha's El Morro sub- region. 100% Tempranillo. Bodegas del Medievo 2006 Medievo Gran Reserva, Rioja Tradition style from the Rioja Baja region showing the typicity and intensity of the sub region. 100% Tempranillo. Dominio del Bendito 2010 El Primer Paso, Toro Elegant and fruit forward with concentrated mid palate, refined structure and finish. 100% Tinto de Toro. Bodegas Vitulia 2006 Vitulia Reserva, Ribera del Duero Expressive cassis aromas, purity of fruit on mid palate and tangy. traditional tannin structure from the central Burgos sub region. 100% Tempranillo. june 2012 / the tasting panel / 59 PHOTO: LANA BORTOLOT

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