Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/68310
The Brightest Whites David Fagot's distinctly miner- ally Pouilly-Fuissé. The producers of Saint-Véran, a village appellation in the Mâconnais that surrounds Pouilly-Fuissé, presented a solid group of attention-getting 2010 Chardonnays at the "Symphony Mâconnais" tasting. After working through a self-poured showcase of at least 30 Saint-Véran wines, there was just enough time to meet a few of the wine- growers behind the labels, most of whom produce several wines from the region in addition to Saint-Véran. Producer David Fagot's rendition was bright, delicious and lengthy; it sent a very clear message about his generation's approach to winemaking and a commitment to quality. Fagot, who is located in Solutré-Pouilly, also produces distinctly mineral Pouilly-Fuissé wines that spend some time in foudre. Richard Martin, who works with his brother Stéphane at Domaine de la Croix Senaillet, pro- duces no less than seven Saint-Véran wines, with the En Pommards serving as the ambassador for this specialist portfolio. Producers Domaine des Poncétys, which poured four sublime examples, Philippe Charmond, the Bret Brothers and Trenel Fils were among the top wines of the group, all for their purity, concentration, typicity and finish. Standouts from surrounding villages included Cédric Chêne's 2011 old-vine Mâcon, La Roche- Vineuse, which follows two excellent vintages for the domaine where a stellar 2010 Mâcon-Village, though a touch softer, was pure and concentrated, showing equally well. Jean-Yves Deloy, Domaine Eloy in Fuissé, bottles a Saint-Véran, but his 2010 and 2011 Pouilly-Fuissés were bright, pure and tasty standouts as was a concentrated and silky Mâcon-Villages 2010. 2010 in the Mâconnais does not disappoint, and of the 2011s tasted, there's reason enough to spend time discovering the handiwork of the young producers here. Saint-Véran from Philippe Charmond. West of Chablis Clothilde Devenne of Les Temps Perdus. There may be few undiscovered Chablis producers, but the 2010 vintage could serve to reform the anything-but- Chardonnay faction with its purity and drive. The discoveries here are found to the west of Chablis in Saint-Bris, where Chablis producers are working their magic with Sauvignon Blanc. Producer Clothide Devenne of Les Temps Perdus, who is well known for Chardonnay, makes an old-vine Sauvignon Blanc from neighboring Saint-Bris, the 2010 of which is pure liquid minerals with only the faintest trace of fruit. The 2011 bottling from younger vines shows gorgeous smoky aromas and clean, herbal, persistent flavors. In nearby Chitry, brothers Marcel and Thibaut Giraudon produce a stunning example of Bourgogne Aligoté, a regional benchmark by any standard, with apple and stone fruit flavors that are lean and bright. Their 2010 Chitry Blanc is even more precise, elegant and long. For Deborah Parker Wong's tasting notes on Burgundy and more photos, see www.tastingpanelmag.com. june 2012 / the tasting panel / 117 The Giraudon brothers, Marcel and Thibaut. PHOTO: DEBORAH PARKER WONG PHOTO: DEBORAH PARKER WONG PHOTO: DEBORAH PARKER WONG PHOTO: DEBORAH PARKER WONG