Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/65124
When and Where Is Port Port? If imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, Portugal should be flattered indeed. Even though "port" is a European Union Protected Designation of Origin, no fewer than six other countries, including South Africa, Australia, Canada, India, Argentina and the United States, produce "port"—or, in the interest of accuracy, port-style wines. Of course, just as cognac can only be made in the Cognac region of France, true port can only be made in Portugal. Few non-port ports possess the same weighty mouthfeel of true port, but they do have a distinctive style and depth not found in other red wines. Being brandy-enhanced, the alcohol content is higher than even the meatiest Napa Cabs—usually around 19%, still under the standard 20% of ports. Even when Portuguese grapes are used, the wines are not identical, due to differences in soil. Outside of Portuguese varieties, grapes of choice are often Syrah, Petite Sirah or Zinfandel. Cabernet and Syrah are blended for the Halter Ranch 2005 El Pecado ("sin" in Spanish, because, says winemaker Kevin Sass, "It's sinfully good"), but the 2006 release, which they label a "dessert wine," is all Syrah. Like many domestic ports, the Charles Krug Lot XV Zinfandel Port, a blend of fifteen vintages that includes six percent Petite Sirah, is Cameron Russell, Director of Wines for Gordon Ramsay at The London, West Hollywood, pours a Ramos Pinto 10 Year Old Tawny from Quinta de Ervamoira. has these observations: "Today, we're out-marketed in dollars by almost every other wine and spirits category. I'm constantly bombarded on my various trips with people saying, 'Oh you must be worried because people aren't drinking as much port as they used to.' But the reality is, port was up around 12 percent last year in the U.S., where it was over 400,000 cases. Within that, our fastest growing category is tawny ports. In 1991, one bottle in ten was a tawny. Now it's one bottle in four. "Our second fastest growing cat- egory is reserve rubies. As for vintage ports, there will be no 2010 vintage, but so far, 2011 is looking fantastic. In fact, we've managed to maintain our high-end vintages while perfecting our middle tier of ports and keeping them affordable. So, if we're selling over 400,000 cases compared with 350,000 cases three years ago and it's going up, do I worry that people aren't drinking enough? No. In fact, I don't mind if people don't buy any more port, because we can only produce so much. What I don't want is for them to buy less." offered in practical 375-ml. bottles. In Alexander Valley, John and Katrina Staten make the estate bottled Field Stone Staten Family Reserve Port from 100-year-old Petite Sirah vines. The spicy chocolate-cherry Frank Family Vineyards Zinfandel Port has spent 40 months in barrels. In the heart of California's Gold Rush country, Trinchero Family Estates produces the raisin- and coffee-coated Terra d'Oro Zinfandel Port, which owes its complexity to a solera system and aging in French, American and Hungarian oak. And when Tony Terlato and family purchased Rutherford Hill winery in 1992, they acquired red wines that age exceptionally well and continue that tradition with their current Rutherford Hill 2006 Zinfandel Port. All of which prompted Rupert Symington to observe, "It's not coincidental that many major California winemakers are now making port-style wines." —R.C.H. may 2012 / the tasting panel / 129