The Tasting Panel magazine

May 2012

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FOCUS ON RIOJA The Classic and the Modern Side of MELDING TRADITION AND TECHNOLOGY AT BODEGAS PATRICINIO by Ben Weinberg Spain I n 1986, a group of grape-growers in the town of Uruñuela in Rioja Alta, a classic wine region in northern Spain renowned for Tempranillo-based bottlings, came together to brand their wines. Previously their production had been sold to other wineries in Rioja, but now the Bodegas Patrocinio cooperative manages about 600 hectares of vineyards and has the capacity to produce more than 8 million liters of wine annually. Total sales exceed 2.4 million bottles of both classic- and modern-style Rioja wines, about 70 percent of which are exported to more than 20 countries, includ- ing 450,000 bottles to the U.S. Export Manager Sergio Balukov says that American customers prefer quality wines and want to know about the winemaking process. "This is very good for us from the economic side because sales are increasing, but also from the esthetic side because our production methods ensure that consumers will enjoy our wines." The business focus and overall philosophy is, as General Manager Fernando Villamor says, "To make high quality and, taking into account the opinion of the consumer, very drinkable wines. Our perfect customer is one who enjoys the pleasure of wine well done, who knows what he´s tasting and what he wants, someone who follows his own taste instead of specific brands." Bodegas Patrocinio's modern equipment includes 3,500 barrels divided between American and French oak. Winemaker Maria Martínez also oversees a five-year-old system to control vine plots. "Properties in Rioja are really tiny, averaging 1.5 hectares [3.7 acres], so for us this is around 1,600 plots. We computerize the data stream, comprised of information such as temperature, acidity and polyphenol content, and cross-match to the treatments used in the vineyards. Now, when we decide to develop a new wine, we can search the computer to find the perfect grapes that reach the desired profile." Modernity is not limited to the vineyards. Balukov attaches great importance to marketing and advertising, "which allows us to stay in the consumer's mind. Social media like Facebook and our blog are also crucial, because we want normal customers, who really enjoy artwork, such as hand-crafted wine, to know more about us, about elaboration, about wine culture." Tradition and modernity. Technology and know-how. Bodegas Patrocinio blends all of these elements into smooth, powerful Riojas at reasonable prices. 114 / the tasting panel / may 2012 Outstanding Recent Releases Tasting notes by Meridith May photos by Danielle "Deed" DeBruno. Señorio de Uñuela 2010 Rosado, Rioja (SRP $7.99) Beautiful dry, dusty straw- berries with a little bit of cranberry apple middle and an elegant, dry finish. It's a sensation—the real deal! Zinio 2008 Tempranillo Graciano, Rioja (SRP $15.99) Creamy blackberry pie filling with a dusty, dry finish. Black, black fruit with pretty espresso on the nose. The acidity in this "semi-cri- anza" (referring to the wine's six-month aging period, less than the year necessary for a crianza designation) begs for food. Zinio 2005 Tempranillo Reserva, Rioja (SRP $23.99) Good density. Not teeth-coating, but the tannins and roundness wrap around the tongue. Creamy yet structured middle with boysenberry-blackberry, plushy-sweet black fruit. Not much oak; integrated, seam- less and easy to drink.

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