Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/646914
94 / the tasting panel / march 2016 Domaine des Chirats 2013 Rockpile Vineyard Syrah, Rockpile, Sonoma County ($60) Winemakers Jeff Cohn and Yves Cuilleron (Cohn's celebrated vintner friend from the Northern Rhône), crafted this black beauty from the famed Rockpile Vineyard AVA in the northwestern-most corner of Sonoma County on a dramatically sloping ridgeline. This vineyard is at 2,000 feet elevation and sits above the fog line with high winds. Dark as night shadows make for an opaque wine. Its density is further displayed on the palate with a surprisingly elegant nature. The fruit is not crammed together with tannins; rather this humble red is chewy with licorice, tarragon and oregano with espresso bean tannins. Lavender is expressed through anise and cigar leaf. 94 JEFF COHN CELLARS Starmont Winery & Vineyards 2013 Pinot Noir, Carneros ($27) What an earthy star! Tobacco leaf, pencil lead and dark, bittersweet chocolate are fast friends. Animale paints another serious tonality on the black raspberry sidelines. Intricate and rooty: a definite Carneros terroir plot. Owned by the folks from Merryvale, the Starmont winery is solar-powered and Napa Green certified. 89 V2 WINE GROUP SPIRITS Leaf Vodka Made from Alaska Glacial Water, USA ($19) Made from Alaskan glacial water, this clean-smelling white spirit offers up dainty scents of lanolin, white tea and cream. A Double Gold winner in the 2014 San Francisco World Spirits Competition and WSWA Spirits Competition, it's triple- decanted prior to filtration and distilled five times using organic wheat grains. On the palate, a sweet wheat cracker is slightly salted, with a soft lemon chiffon note on the back. Distinct and pretty. There's also a sibling made with Rocky Mountain mineral water. 92 GLOBAL SPIRITS Francescano Natura Assisi Chocolate & Rum Cream Liqueur, Italy ($19.99–$23.99) Incredibly dense, so serve this 34-proof treat chilled. The pudding effect makes it more dessert than drink, but we'd love to experience in a cocktail. The fudge-like truffle effect is decadent and the rum makes a fine back-up singer. 89 750 BRANDS CORP. Stolen Smoked Rum, Caribbean ($23.99) Dusky and sublime, the smoked molasses notes get into your head and are swoon-worthy. The smoke travels like a ghost, lighting on orange wedge, pitching and tossing on dark chocolate and taking shape as a melting buttered caramel phantasm on the finish. 93 BLACKHEATH BEVERAGE GROUP Nomad Outland Whisky, Spain & Scotland ($45) Nomad is the first whiskey in the world to be finished in Sherry barrels in Jerez de la Frontera cellars, following a prior aging in Scotland. The blend of 30 different malt and grain whiskies are aged in Scotland up to eight years—and then 12 months aged in old Pedro Ximénez casks in the historic centenary cellar of González Byass in Jerez. The nose is distinct with orange peel, white flowers, butterscotch and malt, while the pal- ate's silky viscosity holds up honey, millefeuille (layers of puff pastry and cream) and a touch of Sherry brine. At 82.6 proof, this Nomad should be welcome anywhere. 94 GONZÁLEZ BYASS USA Bainbridge Yama Whiskey, USA ($450) This American single grain barley whiskey is the first ever American whiskey to be aged exclusively in hand-crafted barrels from rare Mizunara oak harvested from the northern Japanese island of Hokkaido. The organic barley is grown in Washington State's Skagit Valley. The luxuriously perfumed nose speaks of jasmine, sandalwood and black tea. On the palate, tropical notes of pineapple and mango intertwine with nutbread and vanilla oak. This 90-proofer finishes with melting nutmeg butter and spiced tea. All profits will be going to the preservation of the Yama village site on Bainbridge Island. Initial release will be 200 bottles. 96 BAINBRIDGE DISTILLERS Edinburgh Gin, Scotland ($36) Thirteen botanicals come to the call of this hand- beaten copper pot–distilled Scottish gin. The pillowy texture fluffs against the palate, harboring notes of mountain herbs, marshmal- low, leek root and subtle pine. The juniper and coriander are reined in and a lime-heather essence breathes through beautifully. This is a platinum beauty. 94 FREDERICK WILDMAN & SONS Peychaud's Aperitivo, USA ($20) Just launched in New Orleans and soon available nationwide, the brand known for its bitters now offers a sleek 22-proof spirit for mixing. The "bitter" quality is subdued and perfumed with orange rind, jasmine, rhubarb and beet root. The palate texture is satisfying and refreshing. 90 SAZERAC COMPANY Publisher's PICKS