Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/646914
march 2016 / the tasting panel / 93 Groth 2013 Chardonnay, Hillview Vineyard, Napa Valley ($30) Caramel vanilla pudding nose is lightened and lifted by lemon flowers. The flavor is dressed in creamy crème brûlée that distinguishes itself with a frisky acidity and toasted rye bread finish. 92 Riboli Family Vineyard 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford, Napa Valley ($60) Four clones of Cabernet Sauvignon were planted in rich clay-loam soils on gently sloping vineyards along with a small section of Petit Verdot to make this outstanding red. Classic example of Rutherford dust, with finely grained tannins blending harmoniously with the rich dark black fruit, dates, cashew plums, black olive and tobacco. The pitch of base notes is spicy and dotted with black pepper on the finish. 95 Leese-Fitch 2014 Merlot, California($12.99) Punctuated by tart red- cinnamon cherries in a bundle of palate smackin' tannins, there's an über ripeness appeal that dots all the i's: integration of acid and fruit, inspiration- ally juicy and instantaneous pleasure. 89 3 BADGE ENOLOGY Baron Herzog 2013 Old Vine Zinfandel, Lodi ($13) Your palate will quickly grow fond of peppered blueberries amidst ripe, mouthwatering, grainy tannins. The acidity is alert and tempers the palate for the next sip. 88 HERZOG WINE CELLARS Fattoria dei Barbi 2014 "Brusco dei Barbi" Toscana Rosso, Italy ($17) Sourced from estate vineyards in Scansano, in southern Tuscany close to the Tyrrhenian Sea, this blend of 85% Sangiovese Grosso and 15% Canaiolo Nero is one of the great values. Wild strawberry and a dapple of herbes de Provence perfectly season this juicy, remarkably drinkable, cherry-sweet red. 92 FREDERICK WILDMAN & SONS Maddalena 2014 Zinfandel, Paso Robles ($20) How savory, spicy and packed with blue and black fruit! Cooking herbs and spice are forefront on the tongue, in a gobby fruit basket that makes for a textur- ally round wine. Defined coffee tannins, sweet tobacco and fine acidity balance it all out. 90 Inconceivable 2012 Terremoto '68 Rosso, Terre Siciliana IGT, Italy ($25) Blueberry is delicately approached with a lick of anise, while dark chocolate-tobacco makes its delicious entrance. Sumptuous satin holds up devil's food and blackberry pie, with an Old World acidity. What a treat for a blend of indigenous Sicilian grapes: 50% Nero d'Avola, 30% Nerello Mascalese and 20% Frappato. 92 MIDDLETON FAMILY WINES Mercer 2012 Reserve "Cavalie," Horse Heaven Hills, Washington State ($42) Merlots are generally more powerful than Cabs in this pres- tigious region, so it's no wonder that this blend of 52% Merlot, 27% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Malbec and 4% Petit Verdot is a work horse; chalky, astringent tannins are proof. The structure sets a fine path with violets, graphite and blackest of fruits, which generate a textural wow—and it pairs beautifully with grilled meats. 93 Mooney Family 2014 "El Pistolero" Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands ($34) We got to know Chateau Margene's Mike Mooney from his gorgeous Bordeaux-style creations from Paso Robles. Now, with his two Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noirs, we continue to understand his talent. With this limited-edition Pinot, Mooney traces the vineyard land on which it is grown back to his great-great-great- grandfather, who was granted the land in the 19th century. Aged for 11½ months in French oak, it's creamy, buoyant, mouth-filling and jammy. The savory character is hedonistic and generous with rich, dense wild cherry and brandied plum. 92 JKC Wine Company 2015 Sucker Punch Syrah- Grenache-Viognier, Sonoma County ($35) Rapturously rich and dense syrup of blackberry and dried basil, oregano and lilac. The blend of 58% Syrah, 28% Grenache and 28% Viognier has a juicy middle with bone dry tannins. A scene of grilled meats and sweet sliced tangerine is a thrilling combination. 92 Mooney Family 2014 Pinot Noir, Tondre Grapefield, Santa Lucia Highlands ($56) This wine is a compli- cated maze of architectural design. Spiced plums, blackberry, coffee and dark chocolate take turns on nose and palate with long lines, shadows and labyrinths. One side is bright while another is lit by candle. At the core is a juicy, enigmatic beauty. 95 olive and tobacco. The pitch of base notes is spicy and dotted with black pepper on the finish. 95 Leese-Fitch 2014 Merlot, California($12.99) Punctuated by tart red- cinnamon cherries in a bundle of palate smackin' tannins, there's an über ripeness appeal that dots all the i's: integration of acid and fruit, inspiration ally juicy and instantaneous pleasure. 89