Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/646914
march 2016 / the tasting panel / 81 numbers of raptors; thanks in part to a partnership with the Cascade Raptor Society, we spot several hawks during a leisurely vineyard tour, no doubt taking advantage of warm updrafts gifted by the waning Indian summer. Interspersed between manicured vineyard rows are fields of jocund flowers and blocks of squat blueberry bushes that have already shed most of their scarlet foliage. Orchards brim- ming with Gala and Braeburn apples, Bartlett's and crisp Asian pears are planted at lower elevations, as are the gardens and greenhouses. We linger near a neat row of hives to watch the worker bees coming and going; the colony is humming with activity. King Estate is an unexpected oasis that beautifully illustrates a thriving, fully- integrated ecosystem. Stewardship and conservation will undoubtedly continue to be central themes at the winery, and I am told that an application to Demeter USA has been submitted in the hopes of adding biodynamic certification to their already impressive organic credentials. Late in the afternoon, we pause to taste through a lineup of estate Pinot Gris, the oldest bottle from the 1995 vintage. What is immediately apparent is consistency in style—but what most impresses is the fact that these whites have aged perfectly, flawlessly. With acidity and freshness intact, they have developed in a way that no one could have expected. Pinot Gris is not a variety that is prized for its age-worthiness, and the winemaking team is starting to conduct serious research to better understand why these older vintages have held up so well. "Our initial focus will be on comparisons between wine acidity and byproducts of aging such in King Estate Pinot Gris," says Brent Stone, Lab Operations Director at the estate. "We'll also include several notable age- worthy whites from around the globe to see what trends emerge." "Right now we're busy wrapping up harvest, of course, but we expect to have scientific analysis of the wines that will either prove or disprove my tastebuds," smiles Ed. I'll be very curi- ous to see what their team uncovers—a discovery such as this, seems to me a fitting way to kick off their 25th year. King Estate 2005 Domaine Pinot Gris Talcum powder, chalkboard dust and dried mint glide atop luscious tropical notes. More glycerol here that is tempered by bracing acidity. Texturally, the 2005 is totally dif- ferent from its siblings, with exuberant, juicy pineapple, bruised pear and Golden Delicious apple at the core and a dollop of spice on the finish. King Estate 2004 Pinot Gris: Redolent with aromas of citrus, honeysuckle and lemon verbena. On the palate, the 2004 is still quite vibrant with taut acidity cutting through delicate, silken layers of orchard fruit, peaches and a compelling touch of marzipan and clover honey. A touch of minerality at the close. King Estate 2004 Domaine Pinot Gris Vibrant acidity com- bined with fine lees stirring have graced this wine with aging potential. There is an unexpected richness here—aromas of caramelized sugar and sautéed apples gracefully unfurl under lighter notes of smoke and talcum powder. On the palate, richness and silken texture are artfully spun into developed flavors of dried orange peel and almond skin. Drinking beautifully. King Estate 1995 Pinot Gris This bottle is in flawless condition with no visual signs of oxidation. It's still pale lemon yellow with a clear, watery rim. Mature yet lovely tertiary notes of caramelized apple, poached pear, furniture lacquer fill the glass, and later, on opening, marzipan and granulated honey. In the mouth, the acidity is surpris- ingly intact—it's vivid, and lends framework to orchard fruit tinged with walnut skins. Vineyard Manager Meliton Martinez walks among vines he's tended since 1993.