Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/628173
1 14 / the tasting panel / january-february 2016 DIVE DEEPER WITH COUNTER GIN There is a growing legion of enthusiasts who adore the complexity of London dry gins, but are growing weary of the juniper component slapping them around. Juniper has an assertive piney character that while invigorating and good for the health, can be overwhelming. On the other end of the spectrum is the so-called new American-style gin. The main tenet of this creative school of thought is to back off on the juniper and accentuate the aroma and taste of the other botanicals. Few achieve that laudable balance better than Counter Gin. The spirit is handcrafted by brand owner Jeff Steichen and distiller Whitney Meriwether at Seattle's Batch 206 Distillery. Its all-important botanical package includes such unusual aromatics as tarragon and verbena leaves from Provence, lavender flowers, cucumbers from Washington State, orange peels from Seville, Spain and Floridian Meyer lemon peels. The botanicals are macerated in neutral spirits for 36 hours prior to being redistilled in a tradi- tional pot still. The heart of the distillation is then rested to allow the flavors to fully integrate. It is rendered to 80-proof and filtered for purity. Counter is a complex and delectable gin balanced with surgical precision. It has ideal clarity, a smooth curvaceous body and a pronounced fresh floral, citrus and spicy bouquet with juniper notes. Be patient— the longer you let this gin breathe, the more aromatics there seem to be. The palate is a simultaneous offering of herbs, citrus, lavender, cucum- ber and juniper. It has a clean, crisp finish. "One of the reasons our gin tastes so fresh is we never cook our botanicals in the still, so the essence of each botanical comes out a distinct ingredient," says distiller Meriwether. We subdue the flavor of the ever-present juniper, which allows the flavors of the other fine botanicals to shine." (SRP $28.95) BATCH 206 DISTILLERY KEEPING IT CLEAN WITH UNCLE VAL'S RESTORATIVE GIN Uncle Val's Gin began with Zio Valerio and his garden in Lucca, Italy. Valerio had a great love for gardening and Tuscan cooking. His ingredi- ents inspired the three offerings in the portfolio of August Sebastiani's California-based spirits company, 3 Badge Mixology (Valerio was August's uncle, or zio). To achieve the crisp taste of the Restorative Gin, juniper, coriander, cucumber and rose petals are added after distilla- tion, filtration and purification of the base spirit—the spirit is five times distilled and filtered using carbon and lava rock (or pumice). The all-natural ingredients and lack of artificial flavors, colors or additives keep the taste profile clean and authentic. Reminiscent of the classic American gin, the end result, weighing in at 90 proof, enlivens the palate with layers of citrus, a cooling effect from the cucumber and floral undertones. There's no better way to wake your customer's taste buds up. (SRP $39) —Emily Coleman 3 BADGE MIXOLOGY GIN-UARY