Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/628173
100 / the tasting panel / january-february 2016 BLUE REVIEWS BLUE REVIEWS GROWER CHAMPAGNES ARE, FORTUNATELY, SLOWLY BECOMING better and better known here in the U.S. but they still mainly fly under the radar. Unlike most of the more familiar brands of Champagne, these RM (for récoltant- maniuplant) wines are made by the people who grow and harvest the grapes. Leclerc Briant, which dates back to 1872, is an excellent place to start exploring these fascinating sparkling wines. Pascal Leclerc, who ran this family-owned house until his death in 2010, was a firm believer in biodynamic agriculture, but the vineyards had been farmed organically even as far back as the 1940s and '50, when such practices were considered highly eccentric. After Pascal's passing, Leclerc Briant was purchased in 2012 by an American Francophile couple, who brought on highly experienced Champagne industry executive Frédéric Zeimett as CEO. With new packaging and a renewed marketing push, Leclerc Briant's future looks very bright. I recently did a tasting of the Leclerc Briant range with M. Zeimett. These wines— which (like Bollinger and Krug) see oak during their production—are known for their depth, maturity and complexity. From the Classic expressions to the Single Vineyard line to the Specialty tier, they did not disappoint. 92 Leclerc Briant NV Brut Champagne Réserve, France ($55) Juicy and crisp with lively acidity and notes of toasty oak; vanilla, spice and richly deep; long and complex. Biodynamic. 65% Pinot Meunier, 20% Pinot Noir, 15% Chardonnay. 92 Leclerc Briant NV Brut Rosé Champagne, France ($70) Pale amber color ; bright strawberry and crisp acidity; smooth and rich; complex and elegant with a hint of sweetness. Biodynamic. 75% Pinot Noir, 25% Pinot Meunier. 93 Leclerc Briant NV Brut Champagne Les Chèvres Pierreuses, Cumières 1er Cru, France ($70) Elegant and lush with fine mousse; bright acidity and creamy notes of vanilla and yeast; tangy, fresh and charming with balance and length. Biodynamic. 40% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Meunier. 92 Leclerc Briant NV (2012) Blanc de Blancs Champagne La Croisette, Sélection Parcellaire d'Épernay, France ($125) Tangy and bright; racy and pure with no dosage; lively, long and fresh; brisk and minerally. 100% Chardonnay. 95 Leclerc Briant NV Brut Champagne Cuvée Divine Solera, France ($125) Golden color ; toasty, mature nose; rich with almond and oak; complex, dense and juicy with a long, fruity finish; intense and layered, long and dramatic. Biodynamic. 50% Pinot Meunier, 30% Pinot Noir, 20% Chardonnay. LECLERC BRIANT WINES ARE DIRECT IMPORTS 90 Chamonix 2013 Greywacke Pinotage, Franschhoek, South Africa ($34) The name refers to NZ's famous graywacke (pronounced graywacky) soils. Deep ruby color ; silky with crisp acidity; lush and dense with ripe fruit and spice. VINEYARD BRANDS 90 Carpineto 2009 Farnito Cabernet Sauvignon, Toscana, Italy ($36) A silky and articulate Super Tuscan from Chianti Classico pioneer Carpineto. Tangy berry fruit is balanced and fresh with good structure and a long finish. OPICI IMPORTS 90 Trivento 2012 Eolo Malbec, Lujan de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina ($79) The top-tier old-vine Malbec from Banfi's Mendoza winery; deep and smooth with juicy style and bright, lively berry fruit; tangy and long on the finish. EXCELSIOR WINES 98 Crocus 2011 Grand Vin, Malbec de Cahors, France ($125) From Paul Hobbs and longtime Cahors producer Bertrand-Gabriel Vigouroux; rich berry nose; dense, lush texture; rich and ripe with blackberry, cassis and hints of sweet, vanilla oak; intense, elegant and powerful but always in balance; perhaps the finest Cahors I've ever tasted. PAUL HOBBS SELECTIONS VALUE AND BY-THE-GLASS RECOMMENDATIONS 88 Château de Sancerre 2014 Sancerre, France ($14) Loire property developed by the Marnier- Lapostolle family. Racy citrus and tangy acidity; minerally, crisp and bright; balanced and long. TERLATO WINES A New Lease on Life: Champagne Leclerc Briant 98