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THE MESSAGE 16 / the tasting panel / november 2015 C M Y CM MY CY CMY K O n September 22, Joseph Phelps Vineyards hosted two dozen of the Bay Area's top wine buyers for an intimate eight vintage Insignia Retrospective Tasting at their newly renovated winery in St. Helena, Napa Valley. A panel discussion of the wines was led by Bill and Will Phelps, along with winemaker Ashley Hepworth, Master Sommelier Fred Dame and Kim Beto of Southern Wine & Spirits. The Retrospective Tasting included 1985, 1996, 1998, 1999, 2002, 2007, 2011 and 2012 vintages of Insignia. Lively discus- sion included initial vineyard plantings on the property and Phelps' quest to find the right grapes for the soil and climate, which meant several re-planting projects early on in the winery's history. Additionally, the panel discussed the use of grower and estate fruit in the production of Insignia, culminating in a move to 100 percent estate-grown grape sourcing beginning with the 2004 Insignia. What struck many in the audience was how the more challenging vintages blended seamlessly in the lineup with the more highly regarded vintages. As the tasting drew to a close, a "surprise" wine was placed before each guest. After much discussion of older vintage Napa Valley wines and guesses ranging from 1960s Cabernet Sauvignon to 1970s Zinfandel or Merlot, the wine was finally revealed to be a rare magnum of 1975 Joseph Phelps Pinot Noir from the Heinemann Mountain Vineyard in Napa Valley. At 40, the wine had aged marvelously and stumped many of the attendees. —J. C. O ver lunch at Redd Wood restaurant in Yountville, California, Ryan Hodgins, Winemaker, FEL Wines, hosted a tasting of 2012 and 2013 Pinot Noirs from the Savoy Vineyard, which FEL acquired in 2011. On the heels of the 2015 harvest, Kenneth Juhasz of Auteur Wines, Nick Peay and Vanessa Wong of Peay Vineyards and Ehren Jordan of Failla were in attendance. Jordan, who is unabashedly outspoken and opinionated, voiced frustra- tion over "staggeringly bad farming" practices he'd witnessed in Anderson Valley—a sentiment echoed by others in the room, but added that FEL brings "a different farming sensibility to the game," and that attracted his interest. Hodgins, a tall, easy-going and genial man, expressed openly that he hopes everyone taking fruit from Savoy will put a vineyard designation on their label. Farmed organically, Savoy Vineyard totals some 43 acres with 29 planted to Pinot Noir. The soils are primarily sedimentary with marine uplift and deposits of gravel on slopes leading to the Navarro River. Going down the line, the 2012 Failla was redolent of black cherry, earth and savory spice box notes while the 2013 also offered black cherry fruit, bolstered by graham cracker and cocoa notes and more pronounced tannins. The 2012 FEL was smooth with more red cherry notes, hints of coffee and subtle spice with a smoky-flinty quality, whereas the 2013 contrasted more black cherry fruit, violets and lofty minty and savory notes (which Hodgins says is classic of the vineyard). The 2012 Auteur offered black and blue fruit and baking spice notes, while the 2013 was more robust with hints of cinnamon. The 2012 Peay was supple on the palate with dark berry and cocoa notes, the 2013 fruit was more restrained, with a subtle, but jovial, almond note on the finish. —J. C. Master Sommelier Fred Dame with Bill and Will Phelps of Joseph Phelps Vineyards. Left to right: Kenneth Juhasz of Auteur Wines; Nick Peay (back) and Vanessa Wong (front), both of Peay Vineyards; Ehren Jordan of Failla Wines; and Ryan Hodgins of FEL Wines. Master Sommelier Fred Dame with Bill and Will Phelps of Fred Dame Hosts Joseph Phelps Insignia Retrospective Tasting Outstanding Pinots from Savoy Vineyard in Anderson Valley