The Tasting Panel magazine

November 2015

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Page 22 of 136

22  /  the tasting panel  /  november 2015 NEW YORK CITY SIPS W inemaker Germán di Cesare, of the Trivento estate in Mendoza, was in town to present new vintages from the two brands for which he is responsible: Trivento Golden Reserve Malbec and the Amado Sur red and white blends. He also introduced the new Trivento Reserve Torrontés. A native Mendozan, di Cesare follows in his grandfather's winemaking footsteps and has been at Trivento since 1996. He says he's part of the generation that's developing "the Argentine style," which is now focusing on terroir in addition to elevation. "We are discovering that Argentina has a lot of personality and not only in Malbec," he says. "We are now writing our own history." At $21 SRP, the elegant Golden Reserves, from a vineyard in Luján de Cuyo that also produces the ultra-premium Eolo Malbec, give a taste of what Malbec can achieve from old vines. Priced at $15 SRP, the Amado Sur Chardonnay and Malbec blends are "premium entry" wines aged in concrete tanks and foudres to showcase the fruit. The wines aren't the only thing that sing: di Cesare is a singer and classical guitarist who specializes in traditional Argentine folk culture. When it comes to singing, the wines of Maison Trimbach frequently lead the chorus. Representing the 12th generation of his family winery, Jean Trimbach conducted a "Gold Label" vertical, which included Rieslings and Pinot Gris Réserve Personnelle and introduced the 2009 Riesling Grand Cru Geisberg. Several years in the making, the Geisberg aged five years in bottle—a hallmark of the domaine, known for its long aging. "You have to be patient with Riesling," says Trimbach, adding that when you are, it is "the best mirror of the terroir with every detail coming through." The new wine is produced in limited quantities, and Trimbach says it is neither above nor below the iconic Freddie Emile. But, he says, it's the beginning of a new way of looking at Alsace, and "brings more discipline to the overall picture in Alsace . . . Alsace is getting drier; now it will be easier to understand." The Grand Cru Geisberg wasn't the only heaven-sent wine in the vertical: Trimbach presented the holy grail of Rieslings: Clos Ste. Hune from 2009, 2007, 1990, 1976 and 1975. Autumn Gold A GOLDEN RESERVE AND A GOLDEN LABEL HELP HERALD IN FALL IN NYC story and photos by Lana Bortolot Germán di Cesare at Morell Wine Bar. Jean Trimbach at Bouley Restaurant.

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