Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/57654
COMPARISON TASTING Right Wines for the Times The ARGENTINA'S VALUE WINES ARE EASY ON BUDGETS—AND PALATES by Anthony Dias Blue I like to think I had something to do with making Argentina a common by-word for great values in wine. Since first going to Mendoza nearly two decades ago and writing nationally about the wine revolution taking place there, I've made many more trips to this amazing country, discovering new delights on each outing. While Argentina's high-end offerings are world-class, the country's value-tier wines, correspondingly, remain some of the strongest bang-for-buck releases on the market today. All things considered, these are the right wines at the right time—and they just keep getting better. I recently did a comparison tasting of some Argentine wines in the wallet-friendly price range—Chardonnays, signature Malbecs and red blends—mixed with a few ringers from California to keep things interesting. I was particularly impressed with the Bodega Elena de Mendoza wines, a new label imported by E. & J. Gallo; these offerings punch above their weight in terms of flavor, ripeness, texture and style and are especially quaffable food wines. Pair them with the straight- forward dishes—think grilled fish and beef—that Argentina is known for, serve with more complex fare or put them on a by-the-glass program and watch them do what Argentine wines do best: please palates. CHARDONNAYS Bodega Elena de Mendoza 2010 Chardonnay, Mendoza, Argentina ($8) Silky texture, bright acidity and clean, fresh flavors of pear and juicy apple; balanced, tangy and charming with bright fruit and a long, snappy finish. A percentage of Viognier is blended in to drive the aromatics. 89 Bodegas Callia 2008 Chardonnay, Tulúm Valley, Argentina ($9) Bright and juicy with tangy citrus and racy acidity; clean, edgy and fresh with a crisp finish. 88 Quara 2008 Chardonnay, Cafayate Valley, Argentina ($16) Smooth and clean with simple, bright flavors and tangy citrus fruit; fresh and a bit short. 85 66 / the tasting panel / march 2012 MALBECS Bodega Elena de Mendoza 2010 Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina ($8) Smooth, lush and ripe with plum, blackberry and spice; juicy, clean and lively with a long, bright finish. 88 Bodega Norton 2010 Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina ($9) Bright and juicy with clean, fresh plum and raspberry fruit; crisp and lively with a snappy finish. 87 Trapiche Broquel 2010 Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina ($9) Juicy and fresh with lively blackberry and racy acidity; clean, bright and crisp with an edgy finish. 87 RED BLENDS Bodega Elena de Mendoza 2010 Red Blend, Mendoza, Argentina ($9) Lush, dense and ripe with cherry, spice and hint of sweetness; smooth, balanced and showing a long, rich finish The unique use of Bonarda makes an intriguing blend. 62% Malbec, 21% Syrah, 17% Bonarda. 88 Middle Sister Wines NV Rebel Red, California ($11) Smooth, lush and tangy with spice, plum and berry fruit; simple, clean and decent. 38% Zinfandel, 34% Merlot, 21% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Syrah, 2% mixed red varietals. 86 HRM Rex Goliath NV Free Range Red, California ($6) Ripe, lush and a bit sweet; clean, simple and balanced. Syrah and Zinfandel. 84 Wandering Grape 2010 Malbec-Merlot, Mendoza, Argentina ($11) Tangy and juicy, edgy and a bit thin. 65% Malbec, 35% Merlot. 84