Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/566135
72 / the tasting panel / september 2015 COVER STORY Argentina's immense size offers a wealth of growing environments. It covers the entire range of latitudes suitable for growing wine grapes—30 to 50 degrees—and then some. Vineyards can be found from near sea level to almost 8,000 feet. Soil types, climate and rainfall vary substantially. One common thread is a very long growing season, over 90 days. For red wines, that means deep color, soft tannins and, often, high alcohol. A Take on Torrontés Finding ideal sites for each variety—and understanding how the expression of those grapes varies from vineyard to another—is paramount to Mayorga. Take Torrontés, Argentina's aromatic, cross of Criolla Chica and Muscat of Alexandria. Nieto Senetiner wants theirs to express notes of citrus and flowers, but avoid any signs of herb or cut grass. They believe the best sites within the Cafayate Valley are in the vicinity of Salta, Argentina's northernmost wine zone. The old vines there see a lot of sun, but temperatures are moderated by altitude, typically more than 5,500 feet. Pergola-training shields the grapes from excess sun, pre- venting bitterness-inducing sunburn. In the best areas, the growth of that protective canopy is encouraged by some- what stony, clay-limestone, which is cool and holds water effectively. The latter is key, because Cafayete, like Mendoza, gets less than ten inches of rain per year. The Nieto Senetiner 2014 Torrontés, Valle de Cafayete ($13) is varietally correct, very satisfying and a good match for white fish, roast chicken or salads. Honeysuckle and rose lead the aromatics with accents of lemon-lime, melon and green apple. The palate has a soft, round attack with lime and mineral flavors. Lightly viscous, medium-plus body is balanced by gentle acidity and texture. The finish is juicy and refreshing. The Mystique of Malbec Determining the best sites for Malbec is more complicated: It is Argentina's highest-acreage variety and is found in every region. Beyond varying terroir, there can be huge differences in viticultural practices and vine age. Nieto Senetiner is doing a lot of studies on soil types, climate and more, trying to determine which unique expressions of Malbec-key areas each Argentine appellation can offer. Santiago Mayorga explained that he expects this to be a lengthy process. An important end goal is appellation- and vineyard-designate wines with identifiable signatures. "We can't say the wine is from a place and have it not represent something. It should express the area," Mayorga says. A nationwide effort like this can't get sufficient traction, or have significant international impact, if there's only one winery behind it, even such an important producer as Nieto Senetiner. Fortunately, they are leading, not alone. "We're friends with all the wineries and are trying to move in the same line," Mayorga says. Winemaker Santiago Mayorga. PHOTO: STEPHANIE SECREST