Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/551222
august 2015 / the tasting panel / 67 like a micro winery with everything done in small lots. There are 40 individual small fermenters to vinify the various clones and/or blocks of fruit separately. Blending decisions are made based on barrel selections. In addition to unique clonal signatures, the wine gets complexity from the vineyard sites themselves. The Santa Lucia Highlands is uniform in some ways. Since it is 12 miles long, the northern end—much closer to the Monterey Bay—is cooler and fog tends to linger there. Slow ripening here leads to a more delicate Pinot Noir with light color and structure. The southern end experiences less fog, lower wind velocity and warmer temperatures, leading to richer Pinot Noir. These differences are clearly demonstrated by Hahn Family Wines' three limited-production single-vineyard Pinot Noir wines under their Lucienne brand. The name is a nod to founder Nicky Hahn whose middle name is "Lucien." The Lucienne name also honors both the name of the AVA and Santa Lucia, who dons a crown of candles on her head, which is reminiscent of the sun setting behind the Santa Lucia mountain range. The Lucienne 2013 Pinot Noir Lone Oak Vineyard comes from a mid- slope site the Hahn family purchased in 1992, located about 5 miles from the AVAs northern boundary. It's medium-ruby in color with aromas of sandalwood, cranberry, baked cherry and raspberry. The palate is mouth-filling with viscous, tart red fruit and flowers, but the tannins are very light. The fruit in the Lucienne 2013 Pinot Noir Doctor's Vineyard grows at low to moderate elevation. The vineyard, purchased by the Hahn family in 1990, is about five miles from the southern end of the AVA where it gets more sun. Its tannins are moderate and very fine, the color medium and ruby. Fruit flavors are darker: tangy blackberry, black cherry and ripe red cherry with spice. The Lucienne 2013 Pinot Noir Smith Vineyard demonstrates the effect of altitude. Smith is less than a half-mile south of Doctor's, but substan- tially higher at 1,100 feet. There, it is almost always above the fog, so phenolic development comes relatively easily. This is amplified by the well-drained soil and limited irrigation, which leads to small berries. You can see these factors in the dark purple color, smell and taste them in the notes of ripe purple berries, licorice and candied black cherry. The wine remains tangy and balanced though, with nuances of spice. Paul Clifton, Director of Winemaking at Hahn Family Wines. Tony Baldini, President of Hahn Family Wines, addresses the crowd.