The Tasting Panel magazine

November 2011

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quality. We are a part of a burgeoning cocktail scene that also stresses the use of ingredients made in-house, fresh product and traditional technique. BA: Chef Brian, give me some dos and don'ts when sourcing and working with local farms. Chef Brian: Do use them whenever possible, that's really all that there is to say. Don't expect your menu to be set in stone. Working with local purveyors has its challenges because of seasonality, and also consistency. BA: Chef Brian, name a protein, veggie and fruit that can be enhanced with cognac. Chef Brian: Protein: Game birds like pheasant or quail. Vegetables: Cognac pairs well with sweeter items such as sweet potatoes, corn and squashes. Fruit: Cognac would pair well with most fruits, especially pear, citrus and stone fruit. BA: Mixologist Clement, name three classic cock- tails that you transform into contemporary cocktails using cognac and local ingredients. J. R.: In the Cognac Stinger we make a crème de menthe in-house that uses mint from a local purveyor, Garden To Be. The Vieux Carré cocktail and the Champs Elysées cocktail are amazing clas- sic cognac cocktails that we offer to guests. BA: Mixologist Clement, cognac has the reputa- tion of being luxurious and expensive. How do you demystify this category? J. R.: By creating approachable flavor combina- tions in our cocktails that use cognac as a key or main ingredient. BA: Mixologist Clement, how do you prefer to drink cognac? J. R.: Neat. BA: Chef Brian and Mixologist Clement, do you prefer to use VS, VSOP or XO, and why? Chef Brian: XO! It's refined and delicate, with flavors of fig, vanilla and date that come out because of the aging process. BA: What have you learned from each other? J. R.: I have learned about seasonality, culinary techniques from Chef Brian that can be applied to the bar (making syrups, etc.), knife skills and classic food pairings. Chef Brian: I've learned the history of cocktails, as well as different flavor profiles of various spirits from Clement. This knowledge is inclusive of how spirits can be paired with food. BA: Give me one song each that best describes your relationship. Chef Brian: "Against All Odds," by Phil Collins. J.R.: "I Want to Know What Love Is," by Foreigner. ■ THE DRINK: Cognac Stinger 2¼ oz. Pierre Ferrand Ambre ■ ■ ¾ oz. house-made crème de menthe* ■ ■ 4 mint leaves Build into a shaker. Fill with Kold-Draft ice. Shake vigor- ously for 15 seconds. Muddle 4 mint leaves in bottom of highball glass. Dump entire contents of shaker into the highball. Garnish with a slapped mint sprig. Merchant Crème de Menthe 70 fresh mint leaves ½ cup vodka ■ ■ ■ ■ 3 cups simple syrup Stir all ingredients and let sit in a fridge for five hours. (Note: If leaves begin to die and the crème de menthe begins to take on color, strain immediately and add fresh mint.) Strain, bottle and use. THE DISH: Chicken with Smoked Onion and Cognac Purée ■ Sear a deboned half chicken, skin side down; flip it over once it is golden brown. Roast until juices from the leg area run clear. Baste with 2 tablespoons butter using a thyme sprig and let rest for five minutes before serving. Oyster Mushroom and Celery Salad ■ Add mushrooms to one tablespoon heated canola oil and sauté until they begin to turn brown. Add 1 tablespoon butter, a pinch of salt and cook until crispy. Combine the mushrooms with diced celery; toss with fresh lemon, parsley, olive oil and salt to taste. ■ ■ Smoked Onion and Cognac Purée Cut an onion in half; do not remove the paper exterior. Smoke onion over hickory chips until it absorbs the flavor. Remove onion from the smoker and pull off the exterior layer. Separately, heat ½ cup cognac and reduce by half. Add onion to a pot and cover with heavy cream. Cook until onion is tender and cream has reduced by one-quarter. Purée until smooth, and then add cooked cognac, season with salt and pepper. Pour purée into a bowl (soup-consistency purée is fine), add mushroom and celery salad, then cut chicken and place it on top. Enjoy! november 201 1 / the tasting panel / 91

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