The Tasting Panel magazine

November 2011

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STEVEN SPURRIER'S LETTER FROM LONDON M A ilestone Birthday with Wine I PHOTO: DECANTER n early October I turned 70, and this milestone birthday was the subject of three celebrations, one in Singapore, and two at our home in Dorset. They could not have been better and provided great compensation for being born in such a rotten year. The first celebration was organised pre- birthday by Australian Michael Hill-Smith, MW in late September in Singapore at the time of our and Hong Kong–based Jeannie Cho Lee, MW's visit as wine consultants for Singapore Airlines. He had chosen The Imperial Treasure at Paragon on Orchard Road, famous for its Peking Duck and had gathered together Dr. NK Yong, the legendary wine collector, wine writer Ch'ng Poh Tiong, Ingatious and Janice Chan of Iggy's (often voted Asia's best restaurant), retailer Don Tay, importer Michael Chong, Curtis Marsh of The Wandering Palate blog and local MW Lisa Perrotti-Brown. The myriad courses were spectacular, and everyone had brought a bottle to provide a mix of the ultra-classic and (to me, at least) the unheard of. The aperitif was Krug 1988, released by Henri Krug after the 1989 and 1990, still vigourously fresh. Three white Burgundies followed: a smooth Louis Latour 2002 Corton-Charlemagne; a fascinatingly youthful magnum of Bertagna 1998 Vougeot Blanc and a superb Coche-Dury 1999 Meursault- Perrières; then two Pinot Noirs, the DRC 1999 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Cuvée Duvault- Blochet (my last bottle), being slightly corked and outclassed by a beautifully poised magnum of Calera 1994 Reed Vineyard Mount Harlan with another Burgundian dec- ade in front of it. As an entr'acte, Yalumba's re-corked Barossa Valley 1941 Galway Claret, sent over direct from the cellars by Michael's cousin Robert Hill-Smith, was amazing— much younger than I. Three red magnums followed: an elegantly powerful Fontodi 2001 Flaccianello della Pieve IGT Toscana, a beguilingly complex Chave 1997 Hermitage and a Mas de Daumas 22 / the tasting panel / november 201 1 Gassac 1990, still impressive, yet suffering in comparison. The evening finished with two stars: Yquem 1989, not over-rich but concentrated enough for the rest of the century and Yalumba 1940 Special Reserve Tawny made from Dolcetto, Shiraz, Grenache and Muscadelle, both fleshy and grippy and wonderfully warm—a triumph. Over the weekend of 8-9 October, my wife, Bella, and I played host to 103 guests for lunch at The Seaside Hotel, high on the cliffs above the sea on what is known as the Jurassic Coast, and the following day gave a vineyard picnic for many more. Michael Broadbent and Warren Winiarski headed the age span of over 60 years at lunch, and a good time was had by all thanks to the brilliant menu, all sourced locally, that kept us in our chairs for four fleeting hours. Wines were served in pairs: Bollinger Special Cuvée (with 18 months extra cellaring) and A&F Boudin 2009 Chablis Fourchaume as aperitifs; a citrusy fresh Shaw & Smith 2010 M3 Chardonnay contrasting with a mature but minerally Stag's Leap Wine Cellars 2008 Arcadia Chardonnay with salmon, both smoked and tartare; with fried and braised lamb came the densely fruity O. Fournier 2008 Centauri Red Blend from Chile's Maule Valley and the spicily elegant Fattoria Nittardi 2008 Chianti Classico; Château Léoville-Barton 2002 and Château de Beaucastel 2000 (double- decanted) provided contrasting classics with the cheese, while short speeches were made over Roberto Bava's Bassotuba Moscato d'Asti and a pear and almond tart. At the vineyard picnic, Ian Edward's (our neighbouring wine consultant, who will make our Bride Valley Brut) Furleigh Estate 2009 Pinot/Chardonnay sparkler opened the bat- ting, followed by Domaine de Pellehaut 2010 VdP Côtes de Gasgogne white, red and rosé, perfect in the open air with salmon pancakes, sausages and salads. Happy Birthday, Steven, from all of us at THE TASTING PANEL!

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