Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/46939
Where There's Great Wine, There's Hope W hen I fi rst met Austin Hope of Hope Family Wines more than a decade ago, the Paso Robles winery that had evolved from his family's premium grape-growing business was primar- ily producing its fl agship Treana Red and Treana White, plus the economically priced Liberty School, great wine values, with prices that have hardly changed. Today, in addition to these labels, the sustainable-certifi ed Hope Family Wines include Austin Hope 2009 Syrah, Austin Hope 2009 Grenache, the trend-setting 2008-2009- 2010 multi-vintage Troublemaker (so-named because of the challenges this Southern Rhône–style blend gave winemaker Jason "JC" Diefenderfer—see Hacker's Hit Pick) and the multi-vintage Candor Merlot and Candor Zinfandel, both identifi ed by lot and blend numbers on the labels. Plus, Austin is currently developing a three-liter high-end boxed wine. I remember once asking Austin how long his Treana Red would age. He replied that he didn't know, because no one kept them long enough; they were rich, full bodied, and ready to drink upon release. So I took a bottle of their then- current 1998 Treana Red—a blend that can be composed of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, Mourvèdre, Sangiovese, and Petite Syrah, but which Austin and JC tantalizingly change from vintage to vintage (the year is hidden on the back label)—and cellared it until 2008. Upon opening, it was lush and plump with lingering blackber- ries and a delicate thread of tannin. Their current 2009 Treana Red, a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Syrah, promises to age just as well. Likewise, I recently decanted a 2002 Roussanne, Austin's fi rst bottling of this varietal. After nine years, the color had deep- ened to golden bronze and it yielded vibrant stone fruit fl avors with a hint of pineapple and white pepper. All of which proves that, as far as winemaking is concerned, one really can Hope for the best. —Richard Carleton Hacker Hacker's Hit Pick "I'm very infl uenced by European wines," says Austin Hope, "and have always kept that style in my wines. I think we've got everything pegged down with the varietals we can grow here in Paso Robles. Now it becomes a question of what else you can do—what styles of wines you can make with what grows best in our microclimates." For the Holidays: Italian Sparklers You've seen it in movies: Italians know how to celebrate. They do it with style and passion, leaving us to say, "I wish someone could bottle that!" Well, someone does, in the form of Italian sparkling wines. Not just one kind either—Italy celebrates with at least three champagne alternatives. sparklers. To showcase three premium Italian spumante in our wine bar's "Fizz Flight," starting with an already popular Trento DOC, I auditioned Prosecco and Franciacorta. The Notari-Antinori partnership Col de' Salici Prosecco Superiore and Antinori Estate Montenisa Brut Rosé were stars. Col de' Salici's long-neck shape and bright gold label indicate an elegant surprise inside. This 2010 Valdobbiadene DOCG Superiore is uncommon as a millesimato, a vintage-produced Prosecco. The vintage-dating connotes freshness, and as-needed bottling at least twice per year ensures consis- tency towards vintage end. Aromas of apple and grapefruit spring forth, and the extra-dry's slight sweetness evolves into a pleasant citrus-zest fi nish leaving you wanting another sip. I especially enjoyed the full fl avors when pairing with prosciutto di Parma. As fall recently announced itself, I embraced the coming holiday season by tasting these Italian alian spumantes in our wine bar's "Fizz Flight," starting with an orth and the extra-dry's slight The Montenisa Brut Rosé is a celebration with fi nesse. This estate-grown, 100% Pinot Noir sparkler delivers: In the glass the platinum pink color and persistent perlage evoke "ooohs," and its raspberry aromas invite you to taste this complex and full-bodied bubbly. The clean minerality and vibrant acidity ensure a lively celebration. Festeggiamo! —Brandy Falconer, Wine Program Director, Vino Napoli, Carmel, CA. november 201 1 / the tasting panel / 57 Troublemaker (SRP $20) is a Rhône-inspired "Super- Paso" blend of 73% Syrah, 12% Grenache, 8% Petite Syrah and 7% Mourvèdre, a variety that Austin fi rst planted in the late 1990s. Aged in French oak, fl avors of leather, smoked cherries and licorice make this a wine that personi- fi es Austin's statement: "Elegance and power are two words that don't go together, but when you taste our wines, they do." PHOTO: RICHARD CARLETON HACKER PHOTO: RICHARD CARLETON HACKER