Whole Life Magazine

December/January 2014

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cool 11,000-foot elevation of Telescope Peak to Bad- water, the lowest and hottest place in the contiguous United States. Million-acre views, abundant natural wonders and more than 1000 species of plants make Death Valley a stunning place to visit. We approached from the west through the Pana- mint Range and went directly to a 4.2-mile hiking trail leading to Wildrose Peak, where even in September the temperature is a good 20 degrees cooler than the val- ley oor. Along the road, 25-foot tall beehive-shaped charcoal kilns, built in the mid-1870s to supply charcoal for the silver and lead smelters of the Modock Mine 25 miles west, exude the scent of burnt pinion and char- coal. Inside the kilns, light streams in through high win- dows and you can enjoy the magical echo of your own voice. But don't dally too long; when you reach the peak you'll be greeted with an astonishing view across the valley oor below. It's a good place to get your bearings. Heading back on Wildrose Road to Route 190, the central byway of the park, we stopped at several places to take pictures at no particular landmark. Death Valley is like that; some of the most astonishing photo ops are just random curves in the road, where sudden strange rocks jut or a narrow canyon beckons. We also stopped, as almost every visitor will, at the Mesquite Dunes just outside of Stovepipe Wells Village, where mesquite and creosote bushes o er the only scant shade. Some dunes are small, a tempting slide for children; others are tow- ering sand mountains that lure intrepid hikers. We drove on to the Xanterra resorts, located on pri- vate land within the park. ere's a bevy of inexpensive motels an hour outside the park, but the attractiveness and convenience of Furnace Creek Ranch and the Inn at Furnace Creek are unbeatable. As Xanterra's Phyllis Nefsky describes them, "We're in an oasis from which you can experience the stark beauty of the park [and] connect with the environment. You're in the heart of a place with a million-year history." Indeed, you can step out your door at sunset to watch the Amaragosa Mountains turn purple and pink; or catch the last fading shadow of the moon before setting out on any number of nearby early morning hikes. e rich hues of Golden Canyon or the silky, erosion-smoothed portals of Mosaic Canyon are each less than a 15-minute drive away. Having driven from L.A. and then hiked, we lazily admired the sunset, spent hours in the warm swim- ming pool and watched actor Gérard Depardieu—on site lming Valley of Love, a French production set for 2015 release—walk repeatedly across the resort's lawn. In the Ranch's clubby dining spot, the Wrangler, we enjoyed a well-stocked salad bar, IPAs on draught and friendly sta . Organic vegetable risotto is a delicious house specialty, and we loved the rustic vegetable fet- tuccine with Kalamata olives. Eco-friendly Initiatives Xanterra makes a credible e ort to be environmental- ly friendly. In addition to an emphasis on sustainable food, the dining room has a no-straw policy. Other initiatives on the property include toiletries in re ll- able bottles, mixed-stream recycling bins throughout, 28 wholelifetimesmagazine.com

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