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APPELLATIONS About the Region The Finger Lakes is now home to more than 100 wineries, and there remain missteps. But the old reputation—sweet wines, mostly hybrids—is nowhere near reality. Winemakers and growers have narrowed the list of grapes planted, with most favoring Riesling as the lead variety. Gewürztraminer also thrives in a drier style. A range of red wines shows promise, with Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc leading the way. The Rhône Valley’s Louis Barruol, of the highly regarded Château de Saint Cosme in Gigondas, was so enamored with the Finger Lakes that he put together a team to launch a new project that will debut in 2011. Forge Cellars will produce Riesling and Pinot Noir. Barruol recently told the New York Cork Report, “If the Finger Lakes had milder winters, it would be the ideal climate, perfect for Pinot.” After searching for the right fit in Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, and other parts of the United States, Barruol decided that “the Finger Lakes is better than anything I saw anywhere else.” Morten Hallgren, a Danish- born winemaker who grew up in Provence and was trained in Bordeaux and Montpelier, sees the West Coast as another frontier to conquer. “We’ll get there,” he says, noting that his Ravines Wine Cellars wines have broken through to a number of cities in Texas. “We used to be shunned for having Finger Lakes wine. Now it’s easier than ever to get people to listen and taste.” For the uninitiated, the region’s lakes look more like rivers, long and thin and offering warmth during rugged winters and moderation during heat spikes. The sloped vine- yards cover a range of soils, thanks to glaciers that carved out the land long ago. Vintage variation is an understatement here; 2009 was a lean year without a single day at 90 degrees, while 2010 saw Easter weekend hit 90 in a year that rivaled parts of California for length and warmth. 64 / the tasting panel / june 201 1 Here are several producers breaking into new places with regularity Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard The range of Rieslings from Wiemer shows the capacity for high-quality Finger Lakes Riesling beyond the dry bottlings. That said, the Wiemer Dry Riesling, Dry Riesling Reserve and single-vineyard bottlings make up a constellation of consistent quality. The Late Harvest Riesling, often confused for a dessert wine, is more like an Auslese and is a stellar match for a wide variety of dishes. Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars Wines from this Finger Lakes pioneer now reach 41 states, and President Frederick Frank has plans to cover the entire country. The Frank family still favors a large list of varieties, including the rarely seen Rkatsitelli, a favorite in some NYC restaurants. Red Newt Wine Cellars In 2009, Red Newt launched its Circle Riesling, a semi-dry bottling made in larger quantities and designed to compete with high-production Rieslings from Washington State. It’s been a successful wine alongside Red Newt’s other Rieslings, Gewürztraminers, and Cabernet Francs. Ravines Wine Cellars Ravines has gradually increased production without sacrificing quality, and the result is the most highly respected red wine producer in the region. Morten Hallgren’s Dry Rieslings are among the driest from the Finger Lakes, bringing a buzzsaw of acidity and sense of place. Heart & Hands Wine Company By focusing entirely on Pinot Noir and Riesling, winemaker and owner Tom Higgins has allowed himself to avoid the malaise that occasionally comes when winemakers find themselves forced to make wine from too many varieties. Higgins believes in specialization, and the early results are promising. PHOTO: WINE BOTTLE PIX PHOTO: WINE BOTTLE PIX PHOTO: WINE BOTTLE PIX