The Tasting Panel magazine

JUNE 2011

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S even years have felt like a lifetime for Oskar Bynke, a partner and Estate Manager at Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard. In 2004, during his first marketing road trip, Bynke discovered that Manhattan’s finest restaurants were hesitant to bring in Finger Lakes wines. Bynke made dozens of calls and visits, some fruitful, many not. Today, Bynke talks about sommeliers and beverage managers across the country as “ambassadors of our brand,” believers in the potential of Finger Lakes wines (particularly Riesling), and “gaining confidence in what we offer them. They have high standards, of course, but they’ve come to expect the highest quality from us.” This year has brought a wave of success for Wiemer wines. Marcus Samuelsson’s red-hot Red Rooster in Harlem decided to pour Wiemer Riesling by the glass. Tom Colicchio’s Craft agreed to carry Wiemer’s Semi-Dry Riesling in both its New Ravines winemaker Morten Hallgren leads a discussion with a group of visiting writ- ers at Argetsinger Vineyard. York City and Foxwoods locations. And Bynke spent the spring inking new deals in Chicago and beyond. “We have to over-deliver versus Germany and other regions,” Bynke explains. “Prices are better now for Finger Lakes wine. Quality is better. And of course, scores are higher.” He’s right. Major publications and renowned wine competitions have rewarded the sacrifices made by Finger Lakes winemakers with their highest scores and largest honors to date. Not coincidentally, Red Newt Cellars winemaker and owner Dave Whiting has also seen new markets opening up. “This region is pushing into new restaurants and new cities with a drive I haven’t seen in my career here,” he says, noting that Red Newt Riesling has new agreements in Massachusetts, Vermont and Ohio. “There’s been a big change from even two years ago. We’re aware that our wines are world-class, and we’re finding out that the reputation is catching up.” Red Newt makes roughly 18,000 cases of wine each year, and that places it firmly in the middle tier of production in the Finger Lakes. But even the smallest producers are looking to establish relationships with sommeliers and restaurant managers in larger markets. Heart & Hands Wine Company, a new operation that produces only Pinot Noir and Riesling totaling fewer than 2,000 cases annually, has become a hot seller at several Manhattan night spots. “We don’t think you need to produce huge volumes of wine to get attention,” says Heart & Hands owner and winemaker Tom Higgins. “It’s about making wine that competes and will sell.” june 201 1 / the tasting panel / 63

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