Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/10329
Sonoma-Carneros Over time, the style of farming in the region has also changed. The bushy California sprawl was replaced by detailed canopy management and vertical shoot positioning; pesticides and packaged compost was replaced with sustainable farming techniques. Cover crops are commonly used between vineyard rows, and night farming has become more of a custom than a trend. On the western Sonoma side of the appella- tion, this movement was pioneered by Steve Hill, a maverick vineyard manager who began developing the Durell Vineyard in 1979, and the respected Sangiacomo farming family, who planted their first Chardonnay vines in 1969. Today, the family’s third generation—Steve, his brother Michael and brother-in-law Mike Pucci—are the stewards of the Sangiacomo Vineyards. The team is not afraid to use innovative techniques to maximize potential at each site or to drop yields to insure quality of fruit. “There’s no better way to learn than through experience,” says Steve Sangiacomo. “We farm based on the nuances of individual blocks each step of the way.” Mike and Steve Sangiacomo, the new generation of spirited farmers in Carneros. Buena Vista Carneros winemaker Jeff Stewart. Eva Bertran, Executive VP of Gloria Ferrer, enjoys a glass of Carneros Chard. While the Old World style of whole-cluster pressing remains a trademark of the region, in the cellar the latest trend has been focused on preserving more fruit-forward flavors and supple character in the finished wine by using less new oak. Winemaker Steve MacRostie of MacRostie Winery began purchasing fruit from the Sangiacomos in 1983. Today, he blends Chardonnay grapes from his own Wildcat Mountain Estate Vineyard, Sangiacomo, Durell, Mitsuko’s, Chaplin Creek and a number of smaller vineyard sites to craft 20,000 cases of Chardonnay highlighted by flavors of crisp apple, lemon custard, fresh pineapple, subtle spice and a supple mouthfeel. “The citrus notes originally keyed my interest in the region and it soon became evident that I wanted to get my hands on more fruit from unique sites to make wines that are crisp, clean and yummy without too much oak,” says MacRostie, who now only uses 20 percent new French and Hungarian oak barrels in the fermenta- tion process. Jeff Stewart, winemaker at Buena Vista Carneros, is another devoted fan of the Carneros appellation. Working with over 200 acres of Chardonnay vines planted at the winery’s Ramal Estate Vineyard on the border of Napa and Sonoma counties, Jeff creates four different releases each year: the affordable Carneros Chardonnay, primar- ily made with fruit from younger vines; the Ramal Estate Chardonnay, a richer, more complex and sophisticated style; and two limited-release wines made with grapes from special blocks. “The barrel isn’t the reason for the wine to exist. Instead, we use new barrels that can add complex nuances to the flavors the first year, subtlety the second year and preserve the raw flavor of fruit in a neutral bar- may 2010 / the tasting panel / 115 Steve MacRostie of MacRostie Winery makes one of the most characteristic Carneros Chardonnays.