The Tasting Panel magazine

May 2010

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DEPARTMENT HEADER Stage d’Or T he sigh begins, the eyes of the wine buyer start to roll and there’s a brief pause before they say, “More California Chardonnay? Are you kidding me?” In the 1960s, it is estimated, only 150 acres of the grape existed in California, but by 2000, the amount had expanded to 100,000-plus acres. Some see it as Chardonnay overdose, but on the flip side, there are more quality wines than ever before. A pivotal region where the expansion took place is Carneros, a unique AVA located at the southern edge of Napa and Sonoma counties. Influenced by foggy morn- ings, warm daytime temperatures and powerful Petaluma Gap winds in the afternoon, the region is naturally air-conditioned. And unlike much of the Central Coast, where Chardonnay is picked before Pinot Noir, here Chardonnay is typically picked Refined Style In Spanish, “Carneros” means sheep. But today, the flocks, dairy farms, fruit orchards and hayfields have been replaced by sweeping vineyards situated on rolling hillsides and flatlands on the edge of San Pablo Bay. The oldest vineyard in the region is the Stanly Ranch, a historic property near Napa origi- nally developed by Judge John Stanly in the 1880s. Today, its Chardonnay grapes are used to produce elegant wines at Starmont, Merryvale’s state-of- the-art “green” facility located on the property. Nearby Bouchaine Vineyards is the oldest operat- ing winery in the region. Its modern program is led Budbreak in Carneros. by Michael Richmond, a seasoned winemaker who co-founded Acacia Winery in 1979 and eventually helped establish the Carneros AVA in 1983. From the early 1980s on, the integration of new techniques and new plant material—including the classic Wente and newer Dijon clones and other special selections—has helped Chardonnay producers in Carneros focus on defining their own unique styles. “Since the late 1990s, winemakers known for produc- ing big, powerful, buttery and oaky-style wines have started to pay more attention to detail,” Richmond says, “and started to craft wines with graceful suede-like texture, citrus-driven flavors and a pedigree that separates Carneros from the other appel- lations that produce Chardonnay.” 114 / the tasting panel / may 2010 EXCELLENT VINEYARDS AND ACCOMPLISHED WINEMAKERS PUT CARNEROS CHARDONNAY IN THE LIMELIGHT by Christopher Sawyer / photos by Peter Griffith later in September, allowing sugars to develop slowly while retaining bright acidity. As a result, wines from Carneros commonly feature notes of lemon and ripe citrus, fresh apple, pear, peach and intriguing minerality. Younger wines often have fresh floral aromas, elegant fruit flavors and crisp acidity, while the more expensive vineyard-designate versions have more intense fla- vors, richer mouthfeel, layers of spice and a distinct combination of power, finesse and ageability.

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