Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/10329
PORTUGAL Wines are displayed on an antique side- board at Bacalhôa. This spring I went to see the results of the recent years of improvements in non-port wines. While their lowest tier wines remain consistent, albeit with some new packaging, a group of five of the larger wine companies in Portugal is moving forward with reds and whites to rival other countries’ wines, mainly in the over-$10 range. This “G7” group has wineries in Portugal’s seven major wine regions: Vinho Verde, Dão, Douro, Bairrada, Lisboa, Alentejo and Península de Setúbal. You’ll be familiar with some of the wines exported by the G7 group, which is comprised of Aliança (Winebow), Aveleda (Trivin Imports), Bacalhôa (Admiral Imports), José Maria de Fonseca (Palm Bay Imports) and Messias (Luiz's Grocery). They are targeting the U.S., Canada and Brazil to dramatically increase their exports over the next three years—and not unrealistically, as this trend has already begun. While they produce many of the reliable, lower- priced Portuguese wines, it’s well worth looking at the new lines because everyone has something to offer. Aliança’s Dão and Douro wines, especially the reservas, are worth the next-tier pricing. At Aveleda, the Follies line—named after the architectural follies on their ancient estate—is consistently good, especially when the wines have a few years of age. If you have the space, you might want to try a vertical of Aveleda’s Vinho Verdes, which tend to age well for five or ten years (though it’s best to leave them alone in years two through four). Bacalhôa’s white Caterina 2008 is extremely versatile and their Quinta dos Loridos Alvarinho 2008 and Serras de Azeito 2009 white and rosé are easy to drink, too; for a red, look at the 2009 JP Azeitão Tinto. Messias’ nice Quinta do Valdoeiro line can also be aug- mented by some of their international-style 2007 reds from the Douro. At JM Fonseca, don’t stop at their well-known Lancer’s, Twin Vines and Periquita; go right for winemaker Domingos Soares Franco’s special projects like the Domini “Douro Soup” and Domini Plus from the Douro, both 2007s. As spokesperson for the G7 group, António Soares Franco (who is also president of JM Fonseca) believes that that one of the major retail and restaurant hurdles they must over- come is the lack of a separate “Portugal” section. Sometimes the wines are sold under an “Iberia” sign; sometimes Portuguese wines are simply classed with “Other.” Most insultingly to António, the Portuguese wines may be simply included in the Spanish section. The Portuguese are a proud people, he reminds us, with 900 years of history; Portugal is the oldest country in Europe—300 years older than Spain. Asked whether he would like to separate Portuguese table Quinta da Bacalhôa, a former Portuguese royal estate, dates from the middle of the 15th century. wines from the concept of port wines, António says no; he believes an association with other quality wines (like port) is posi- tive for all the wines of Portugal. He explains, “Portugal has a little niche they can exploit: small properties and small production.” For the near future, his ambition for Portuguese wines is twofold: “We must promote quality” and “we must innovate.” may 2010 / the tasting panel / 113 PHOTO: BECKY SUE EPSTEIN PHOTO: COURTESY OF QUINTA DA BACALHÔA PHOTO: COURTESY OF AVELEDA