Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/960891
april 2018 / the tasting panel / 91 Gehricke 2014 Los Carneros Pinot Noir, Sonoma ($39) Exotically-spiced aromas of cinnamon-rhubarb, dessicated rose petals, and anise motivates that first sip. Black-tea tannins and tobacco show the serious side of this wine, while vibrant black cherry integrates well with toasty oak. 93 3 BADGE BEVERAGE Sokol Blosser 2014 Thistle Vineyard Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills AVA, Willamette Valley, Oregon ($38) Thistle Vineyard is a 27-acre, Certified Organic site on 100% volcanic Jory soils, with the fruit sourced from vines grown at elevations up to 550 feet. Scents of earth and Bing cherry manifest as the palate dives into a savory thread of plum spice, animale, and minerality. Aged 16 months in French oak (35% new), this wine is extremely well made with complexity and balance. 92 WINES Ladera 2015 Chardonnay, Pillow Road Vineyard, Russian River Valley ($50) From the Sebastopol Hills just ten miles from the Pacific, this striking white grown on Goldridge sandy loam soils exudes arresting aromas of vetiver, lemon curd, and summer pears. Chamomile, baked apple, and tarragon are enmeshed in the wine's creamy nature, and keenly-linear citrus notes bring in high-toned acidity. The finish is surprisingly salty. 94 J. McClelland Cellars 2013 Malbec, Oak Knoll District, Napa Valley ($45) Rich, pronounced fruit with stature. This wine is aged in French oak for 40 months, and its meaty, earthy, just-right spice makes for a stellar example of this grape from top real estate in Napa Valley. 94 SCOTTO CELLARS Panther Creek 2015 Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley, Oregon ($30) This 100% stainless steel–fermented white has a nose of lemon and buttercup. The mouthfeel, while generous, is laden with flinty notes that coat apricot and tarragon. 89 Dutton Estate 2016 Kylie's Cuvée Sauvignon Blanc, Dutton Ranch, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County ($25) From the cooler Green Valley sub- appellation of Russian River Valley, this Musqué-clone Sauv Blanc offers up aromas of lime, mango, and fresh herbs. Precise and clean on the palate, the crisp grapefruit notes are tempered with tropical fruit while the white floral tones of lily and jasmine are rounded out by a hint of cinnamon. 92 Apothic Crush 2016 Red Blend, California ($14) Created as a seasonal release, this "smooth red blend" ups the ante for a "sweet-but-not-too-sweet" category. With the majority of its grapes sourced from the Lodi region, the blend predominantly consists of Petite Sirah, Zinfandel, and Pinot Noir. Notes of perfumed jasmine show complex- ity, melding with a delicious fudge cake aroma that translates right to the palate. At 14.5% ABV, this wine is balanced and food friendly: Its acid structure is just right for its richness factor. A wash of caramel along with ripe, dense cherries and plums stretches the fun to a plush finish. 90 E. & J. GALLO Cellardoor Winery 2015 Aurora Artist Series, USA ($30) Labeled as an "American Red Wine," the grapes for this sturdy blend are sourced from the Yakima Valley, Red Mountain, and Horse Heaven Hills AVAs. With 52% Syrah, 29% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 19% Cabernet Franc aging 18 months in new American and new French oak— plus the warmest-to-date growing season in Washington State—this wine was jammy with chocolate-cherry notes. The acidity was pronounced, making it a perfect food-pairing option. 91 Ancient Peaks 2014 Oyster Ridge, Santa Margarita Ranch, Paso Robles ($60) Large white oyster fossils are ubiquitous along the Santa Margarita Vineyard, located in the southernmost area of Paso Robles in its own AVA—Santa Margarita Ranch. This cool growing region 14 miles from the Pacific offers a mineral-rich, big-boned red comprised of 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, 5% Syrah, 5% Petite Sirah, and 3% Malbec. While the tannins are developed, the liquid is plush with layers of flavors from lavender to mulled plum and blackberry to dusted cocoa cedar. 94 The Winery 2014 Tempranillo, North Coast ($27) The Winery has its urban location in San Francisco, but it works with viticulturists throughout California's wine regions. Winemaker Bryan Kane has a commitment to sustainable farming practices and natural winemaking. What we liked about this wine was how it teetered on a profile of Old and New World to profess this variety. It's structurally sound with round tannins, and its nose of cherry cocoa and briar is inviting. This is a terrifically food-friendly red with good acidity. Fresh, tart cranberry, rhubarb, and a touch of new leather hit mid-palate before it finishes nicely with mocha oak. 90 Pamplin Family Winery 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon, Washington ($50) With appel- lations covering Walla Walla (51%) and Red Mountain (49%), this not-yet-released red is due out this fall. Aged 21 months in new, single-use, and neutral French oak barrels and sourced from three vineyards, this small-production Cab shows off the ripeness of juicy cherries while maintaining its serious graphite-licorice core and dense texture. 93