Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/960891
april 2018 / the tasting panel / 89 I n 1952, 21-year-old Gilbert Gruet started producing Champagne in the small village of Bethon, France. With help from his wife, Danielle, he planted his vines on a property given to him by his father. When he visited the American Southwest some years later, Gilbert found a group of European vintners producing wine near Truth or Consequences, New Mexico—a town named after a famous '50s radio game show. He purchased some high-elevation land and planted the traditional Champagne varieties of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Pinot Meunier; at more than 4,000 feet above sea level, the dry, warm days and cool, crisp nights offer a perfect climate for grape-growing. Gruet Winery remains a family business, with Gilbert's descendants overseeing operations. The sparkling wines (Gruet also produces small quantities of still wines) are made with the traditional méthode champenoise, where the secondary fermentation takes place in each individual bottle. Located not far from Albuquerque, the winery attracts a steady flock of tourists and houses a tasting room and a restaurant. Read on for Anthony Dias Blue's tasting notes of Gruet Winery's sparkling wines: 91 Gruet Winery NV Brut ($18) Smooth with generous fruit and fine bubbles; fresh, juicy, and clean with tangy style; a delightful wine and an amazing value. 90 Gruet Winery NV Blanc de Blancs ($18) Dry and crisp with a rich texture; bright and luscious with ripe flavor and excellent balance; polished and dense. 88 Gruet Winery NV Demi Sec ($18) Round, lush, and off-dry; silky, clean, and satisfying; simple and refreshing with a long finish. 90 Gruet Winery NV Blanc de Noirs ($18) Continuous and rich with a ripe elegance; dry, balanced, and deep; a carefully-made wine at a very reasonable price. 92 Gruet Winery 2012 Blanc de Blancs ($35) Charming and elegant with bright, juicy style; tangy, sleek, and racy with finesse and fine balance; an impressive achievement. 90 Gruet Winery NV Brut Rosé ($18) Bright pink color with a juicy strawberry nose; dense and fresh with good balance and style. 100% Pinot Noir at 12% ABV. 90 Gruet Winery NV Sauvage ($20) Clean, rich, and fruity with minerality and depth; an invigorating and tangy wine that is very reasonably priced. 91 Gruet Winery 2012 Gilbert Grande Reserve ($35) Crisp and precise with earthy notes and mineral elements; refined and complex with a long and lively finish. 91 Gruet Winery 2012 Cuvée Danielle Grand Rosé ($35) Dry, snappy, and ripe with hints of strawberries; smooth, lush, and balanced with long-lasting flavor. GILBERT GRUET'S LEGACY CONTINUES AT HIS FAMILY'S NEW MEXICO WINERY TASTING NOTES From Champagne to the Southwest