Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/960891
april 2018 / the tasting panel / 71 ESSENCIA, THE EXALTED ELIXIR OF HUNGARY'S TOKAJ REGION, PRESENTS A WINE EXPERIENCE LIKE NO OTHER by Cliff Rames / photos by Nick Klein F or all its glory and romance, it can be easy to forget that great wine ultimately represents an agricultural product—albeit a finely- crafted one. The notion that a farmer could harvest a cluster of grapes affected by noble rot somewhere on a golden, volcanic slope, and that the nectar of these unsightly, shriveled berries could produce an elixir revered by kings and queens, composers, politicians, and master sommeliers alike, is a concept that seems almost fantastical. I was profoundly reminded of the magical bond between the farmer and the maître d, vineyard, and dining room when I had the distinct privilege of tasting one of the world's most unctuous wines, Essencia, during a formal reception at the Embassy of Hungary in Washington, D.C. Served from a crystal spoon in lieu of traditional glassware, the sweet and complex Hungarian import both electrified my senses and incited in me a childlike wonder, as though I had just tasted a liquid fairy tale. The reception served to com- memorate the launch of "The Year of Aszú," a campaign promoting the historical sweet wines of the Tokaj region. Hosted by Dr. László Szabó, Hungarian Ambassador to the United States, and co-hosted by The Tasting Panel and Vinum Tokaj International, the event unfurled in grand style with informative presentations, a buffet of Hungarian cuisine, and a distinguished selection of Aszú wines, including the crystal spoonful of Essencia: the crown jewel of the evening. "Essencia is a rare and exquisite treat. Anyone who has ever tasted it realizes that it is unique—a wine unlike anywhere else in the world," Ambassador Szabó told guests, adding that Essencia is "truly one of the world's finest treasures" with "intense sweet- ness balanced by wonderful volcanic minerality and acidity." Dr. Péter Molnár, Ph.D., who serves as President of the Viticultural Section of the Tokaj Regional Council of Wine Communities, led a discussion of more than 500-year tradition of viticulture and winemaking in Tokaj, the first closed wine region of the world. Molnár, also a Member of the Board of the National Council of Wine Communities, explored the characteristics of Hungary's indigenous varieties and the distinc- tive, incomparable character of Aszú wines—six of which were available for tasting from different wineries. The assembled group of 85 som- meliers, restaurant owners, wine professionals, media representa- tives, and other VIPs sipped Tokaj Dry Furmint selections and the Aszú wines before finally sampling the Royal Tokaji 2008 Essencia in crystal spoons—the recommended method for tasting the wine. "[It's] like a child taking his medicine," joked Ambassador Szabó. Dr. László Szabó, Hungarian Ambassador to the United States, introduces guests to Tokaji Aszú during the reception.