Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/960891
6 / the tasting panel / april 2018 The winemaker in charge at J. Lohr's new Greenfield winery, Kristen Barnhisel, could hardly be more qualified to head up the winery's white wine program. A native of Santa Rosa, she grew up firmly entrenched in Northern California wine country; Barnhisel's mother worked as a bio- chemist at Simi Winery and her father was a home winemaker. While traveling in Italy as she pursued a degree in Italian literature, Barnhisel was encouraged by legend- ary winemaker and family friend Zelma Long to cut her own viticultural teeth. Barnhisel became the first woman to work harvest at Ruffino in Tuscany—an experience that solidified her urge to become a winemaker. As Barnhisel worked toward complet- ing a master's degree in enology from the University of California, Davis, she also snagged several coveted internships at renowned wineries like Warwick Wine Estate in South Africa, Opus One in Napa Valley, and Long Vineyards in St. Helena, where she gained invaluable knowledge working alongside her mentor Long. After graduation, Barnhisel spent two years as the enologist at Columbia Crest in Washington State. When she returned to California, she held positions as an assistant winemaker at Jordan Vineyard & Winery and Belvedere Winery before joining Handley Cellars in Anderson Valley, where for eight years she served as Co-Winemaker with Founder Milla Handley. Prior to joining J. Lohr in 2015, Barnhisel was the Quality Control Manager at Francis Ford Coppola's Inglenook, where she was charged with maintaining the stature of the winery's flagship Cabernet Sauvignon, Rubicon, and its top white blend, Blancaneaux. Today, the outgoing winemaker works alongside J. Lohr's longtime Director of Winemaking Jeff Meier, bringing a vast range of experience, technical know-how, and boundless enthusiasm as she steadily ascends into a role as the "face behind the brand" for J. Lohr's white wines. Between the ever-present twinkle in her eyes and the quality of her wines, evidence abounds of Barnhisel's dedication to this esteemed Arroyo Seco winery. A Sense of Place When we visit the small yet bustling town of Greenfield in Monterey County in mid-February, the Arroyo Seco is flowing with the remainder of this winter's rains. The weather is cool but glorious, and Barnhisel is eager to give us the lay of the land. After visiting a block dedicated to the Chardonnay "musqué" clone 809, which makes up the backbone of the aromatic J. Lohr October Night Chardonnay, we drive to a low bridge minutes from the winery and hop out for a look at the Arroyo Seco itself. On either side of the river are blocks of the Franscioni and Griva Vineyard, which provides fruit to J. Lohr by long-term agreement. Kristen Barnhisel holds the Riverstone Chardonnay from the J. Lohr Estates series and the Burgundy-inspired Arroyo Vista Chardonnay from the "single- concept" J. Lohr Vineyard Series.