Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/935769
{ SOMMjournal.com } 79 REGION/COUNTRY: GEORGIA It's not just Croatia that tugs at the wine-soaked heartstrings of Cliff Rames: Georgian wines earn a similar fondness. Archeological evidence points to southern Georgia as the earliest known cradle of winemaking; a recent find contained ample amounts of ancient grape pollen at a site in the region. Grape-decorated pottery, estimated to be roughly 8,000 years old and con - taining residues of tar taric acid, was also found—a telltale sign of winemaking. In 2005, the Gotsa family discovered a 4,000-year-old bronze sword, another tes- timonial ar tifact to speak to the age of their four-hectare Asureti estate vineyard. Farmed Biodynamically, the vineyard is planted to 14 indigenous grape varieties, including Mtsvane. Gotsa Family Wines 2013 Asureti Vineyard Mtsvane, Kartli, Georgia Using traditional techniques, the winery team ferments the white Mtsvane grapes on the skins with native yeast in amphora vessels (called qvevri) for nine months. Holes are drilled in the amphora, and once fermentation is complete, the vessels are unplugged and the wine is gravity-fed into amphora below for an additional 16 months of aging. The resulting wine is bottled without filtration or sulfur. The versatile style of these orange wines allows them to easily transition from course to course. "There's certainly enough tannin in this wine to go with steak," said Jay James. "I kind of feel like I need one at the moment!" Tasting Notes Negroni-like aromas of dried Turkish apricots, orange peel, and hints of blonde tobacco. Tannic with flavors of burnt caramel and a slight hoppy quality on the finish. —M.B.