The SOMM Journal

February / March 2018

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22 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } FEBRUARY/MARCH 2018 { the ransom report } The Ransom Report is a column by The Somm Journal's East Coast Editor David Ransom. In each issue, David will discuss what's currently on his mind and in his glass gathered from conversations and experiences in the world of wine, spirits, and hospitality. { the ransom report } THE UNFORTUNATE MISUNDERSTANDINGS OF ARMAGNAC story and photos by David Ransom Re-examining France's Most Adaptable Spirit C M J CM MJ CJ CMJ N FRANCE IS WELL KNOWN for producing some of the world's greatest bran- dies, most notably Armagnac, Calvados, and Cognac. All three have their merits and devotees, yet if you ask the average consumer about Armagnac, you'll most likely get a response that goes like this: "Well, it's like Cognac, isn't it, only more rustic?" Ask somms about Armagnac, and they'll invariably wax poetic about how beautiful a brandy it is before lamenting that their customers don't understand how it dif - fers from Cognac and that it sells slowly as a result. Why is that? A recent foray through the cellars in Gascony of Armagnac producers both large and small left me with a newfound appreciation of this exceptional yet often overlooked spirit. Seeking more context, I reached out to a couple of somms who are well acquainted with it and its perception in the mar - ketplace for their opinion on how to best present and promote it in today's restaurant environs. "We carry Armagnac in all our restaurants, but not always in the usual way," says Jerry Garbus, Op- erating Partner and Wine Director for a restaurant group in Manhattan Beach, California, that includes Manhattan Beach Post, Fishing With Dynamite, and The Arthur J. "While we do have a few on our brandy list, where Armagnac has found the most success and popularity is in our bar program, as a base spirit in cocktails. Armagnac profiles tend to be leaner, brighter, more defined, and with a little less sugar than those of Cognac, allowing us greater control of how we build our brandy-based cocktails." Sommelier Andre Compeyre of Aldo Sohm Wine Bar in New York City is also a fan, though he sticks to a more traditional approach. "I use Armagnac as a tool to build customer loyalty," he says. "When a customer asks for a Cognac, I often suggest a vintage-dated Armagnac, explain the stylistic differences between the two, and wait to see their expression when they take a sip. Not only do they invariably thank me for the suggestion, but they often continue to try different producers on subsequent visits." With records showing that brandy was being made in the Gascony region as far back as the 1300s, Armagnac's legacy is certainly cemented. Yet for all that history, Armagnac has never gained Cognac's notoriety or mass appeal. Whatever the reason, let's make this the year of the underdog and start championing France's oldest distillate in 2018. Patrick de Montal of Château Arton in the Haut Armagnac subregion is the creator of the Blanche category of Armagnac, a bartender staple. Vintage Armagnacs spanning four decades at Darroze, one of the region's most respected négociants. Claire de Montesquiou, Proprietor of the highly-regarded Domaine d'Espérance, makes Armagnac both to sell to négociants like Darroze and to bottle on her own.

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