The SOMM Journal

February / March 2018

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20 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } FEBRUARY/MARCH 2018 { steven spurrier's letter from london } THE INTERNATIONAL Exhibition Wine Society was founded in 1874 with the aim to supply wine to the "professional middle classes." (In those Victorian days, the Brit - ish upper classes stocked the cellars in their country houses with bottles from merchants in London's Saint James' Street. The lower classes didn't drink wine, so the audience was well-targeted.) Today, The Wine Society (as it's now known) has a second-to-none buying team that plows its profits back into acquiring new wines for its members while keeping stocks of older vintages. At a tasting early last December, participating producers from the Rhône Valley and Provence showed both young and superbly mature vintages. Domaine Barge, Côte-Rôtie 2016 Condrieu Beautifully expressed with no exaggeration, just balancing acidity. To 2022. 92 2012 Côte-Rôtie Le Combard Grown on steep volcanic soil. Floral nose; richer than expected on the palate with a refined and long finish. To 2025. 92 2011 Côte-Rôtie Côte Brune Deep in color ; rich, warm flavors, more tannins, and length. 2019–28. 93 2011 Côte-Rôtie Duplessy A delightful, youthful, lifted, and almost "feminine" wine. To 2025. 92 2010 Côte-Rôtie Duplessy Floral and pure, open and ready; not a keeper. To 2020. 91 2006 Côte-Rôtie Duplessy Still young, but the spicy nose and sweet middle fruit offer elegance and charm. Perfect "à table." To 2026. 92 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave, Hermitage 2011 Hermitage Blanc Pale gold; honey- suckle bouquet; rich flavors, including yellow fruits, with complexity building to a mineral finish. A great wine for the cellar. 97 2000 Hermitage Blanc Still young in color. Nutty with dry honey and superb fruit. Mature, yet with a decade in front of it. 96 2014 Saint-Joseph Deep color, black fruits, natural depth, and perfect length. To 2024. 92 2012 Hermitage Rouge Smooth aro - mas; the power kicks in while the finesse remains in this seamless blend of Hermit- age's best plots. 2020–35. 97 2008 Hermitage Rouge Floral and still young with almost Côte-Rôtie–like finesse. To 2022. 92 1990 Hermitage Rouge Superb color for its 27 years of age. A touch of spice and a sweet middle; beautifully poised with stun - ning quality. To 2030. 99 Domaine Alain Voge, Cornas 2015 Saint-Péray Ongrie Oak-aged Marsanne produces summer fruits and long flavors. 91 2015 Cornas Les Chailles Deep, rich, and smooth palate with a grip on the finish that's unmistakably Cornas. To 2028. 92 2006 Cornas Vieilles Vignes Rich, velvety red; a superb, savory Syrah that will be excellent to 2026. 93 2005 Cornas Les Vieilles Fontaines A rich, classic Cornas combining florality and depth of flavor. Has a decade in front of it. 94 Clos des Papes, Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2009 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc From equal amounts of the appellation's six permitted white varieties, a most inter - esting white Châteauneuf that can be kept to 2022. 93 2014 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Bright, fresh, and lovely lifted fruit—very Burgundian. To 2024. 92 2009 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rich, won - derful warmth, purity, and structure from Mourvèdre. Still young, with a great future to 2029. 94 1990 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Deep red with no real age; marvelous richness, with spice and natural, unexaggerated sweet - ness. Wonderful now to 2025. 97 Domaine de Trévallon, Alpilles 2015 IGP Alpilles Blanc Marsanne, Roussanne, Clairette, Grenache Blanc, and a touch of Chardonnay blend Rhône richness with Provençal florality. Lovely to 2022. 93 2010 VdP des Bouches-du-Rhône Half Syrah, half Cabernet. Spice and grip are perfectly matched here; natural rich- ness and fine tannins indicate a future to 2025. 93 2008 VdP des Bouches-du-Rhône Shows great finesse and length, with just 13% alcohol. 92 2005 VdP des Bouches-du-Rhône Perfectly-expressed dark fruits tinged with garrigue; a serious wine. 93 2004 VdP des Bouches-du-Rhône Elegant and open; lovely vineyard expres - sion. 92 Mas de Daumas Gassac, Languedoc 2016 VdP de l'Herault Blanc Viognier's peach notes convey this wine's purity and vivacity. Delightful to 2022. 92 2014 VdP de l'Herault 80% Cabernet. Garriguey spice with no hard edges. To 2026. 92 2013 VdP de l'Herault Richer and smoother with more depth. Very good indeed. 2020–30. 94 2012 VdP de l'Herault Very elegant and almost graceful in its finesse. Has a good future to 2028. 93 2008 VdP de l'Herault A finely-textured expression of Cabernet from the south. To 2022. 93 The Chapel of St Christopher in Tain l'Hermitage. Classic Estates THE INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION WINE SOCIETY POURS RHÔNE AND PROVENCE PHOTO COURTESY OF CHIYACAT VIA THINKSTOCK

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