Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/935769
{ SOMMjournal.com } 77 The Jidvei Winery is in the Târnave DOC of the Transylva- nian Highlands, located just north of the Carpathian Moun- tains that divide Romania in half. Because it's situated in one of the coolest growing regions in the country, Jidvei has planted almost the entirety of its estate vineyard to white grapes (a small share of red varieties is planted primarily for rosé and sparkling). "It's an area that's very good for aromatic wines because of the acidity, the cool climate, long summers, and long autumns that also allow for late harvest," explained Ioana Benga, Export Manager for Jidvei Winery. "Because of this, we are able to make wines that are a little bit special." Romania's winemaking history dates back thousands of years, with the first written mentions of the Târnava Valley appearing around 400 B.C. But similarly to Tokaj in Hungary, the region has only recently been able to recommit to pre - mium wine production in the wake of communism's decline. "In the past ten years, there's been an explosion of wineries in Romania," noted Benga. "They're smaller in size, but all of them are trying to bring something special to their wine. It's good for us as consumers because there's a lot of competi - tion, so the wines are getting better and better." According to Benga, Romania ranks 13th in total wine production worldwide—just slightly higher than New Zea- land. "We drink most of our own wine, though we would like to bring it to other places, too," Benga said with a laugh. Jidvei 2016 Maria Owner's Choice Pinot Gris, Transylvania, Romania Benga poured Jidvei's premium "Owner's Choice" Pinot Gris, noting that the wine is "not a Romanian va - riety, but it's made in a way that I think is unique com- pared to other regions." The large, 2,500-hectare estate cultivates only 70 hectares (173 acres) of Pi - not Gris, which is harvested manually just 15 minutes from the winery. Jidvei's hyperoxidation approach puts it in what's some - times known as "the brown juice club": During the hyperoxi- dation process, small amounts of oxygen are added to the must during primary fermentation, causing brown-colored particles to precipitate out. "The theory is to create an envi- ronment where all the compounds that are likely to oxidize during that first year of aging are oxidized now and settled out," James explained. "You sort of dispose of them early, leaving the fresh fruit and the beauty behind that's in danger of being wrecked." Despite its increasing popularity, the process is quite risky and must be performed in an impeccably-clean environment with very precise temperature control. Tasting Notes Pretty, white floral aromas with subtle hints of pear and fresh, mouthwatering green apple flavors. —M.B. REGION/COUNTRY: TRANSYLVANIA, ROMANIA Ioana Benga, Export Manager for Jidvei Winery, reviews the region of Transylvania.