Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/935769
72 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } FEBRUARY/MARCH 2018 MIDDLE REACH: Both the northern- most and warmest of the five Russian Valley neighborhoods, Middle Reach's immediate proximity to the Russian River results in denser fog banks and seasonal diurnal swings of more than 40 degrees. Some of the appellation's oldest and most iconic Pinot Noir vineyards—such as Allen, Flax, Rochioli, and Joseph Swan's Great Oak—are known for lush, cherry/ red fruit–driven qualities and rounded structures, notwithstanding firm tannin and moderate acidity. The neighborhood's Chardonnays, meanwhile, pick up tropi - cal fruit notes while retaining taut, lemony acidity. Yet winemakers like Gary Farrell's Theresa Heredia remind us that "Middle Reach is not all the same . . . the cobbly, riverbed soil of Rochioli gives beautifully- pure Pinot Noir, whereas the finer, silty Yolo series soil in Allen across the road produces earthier, more savory, and often exotically-spiced Pinot Noirs." SANTA ROSA PLAIN: The flatter area east and south of the Middle Reach is not quite as warm as its northern neighbor, but the area is among the warmest in the broader appellation (cold pockets in flatter areas, however, are particularly susceptible to frost). Soils vary but are predomi - nantly in the clay-based Huichica series, in contrast with the Goldridge sandy loam associated with most of the Russian River Valley. Pinot Noirs are brightly red-fruited, suggesting cherry, raspberry, and straw - berry, along with ample acidity: Vineyards that produce wines highly representative of these characteristics are Pellegrini Olivet Lane, Benovia Winery Martaella, and Leras. Santa Rosa Plain Chardonnays are citrusy and often steely with minerality, epito - mized by Benovia's La Pommeraie, Russian River Vineyards' Tina's, and La Crema's Saralee's. You'll also still find Russian River Valley Zinfandel planted by Italians (nota - bly, the Mancini, Pelletti, Barbieri, Gambogi, and Saitone families) as long ago as the 1890s in the Santa Rosa Plain. LAGUNA RIDGE: As the name implies, this is a slightly-elevated line of Goldridge sandy loam–crusted hills running in a north-south direction between Green Valley to the west and Santa Rosa Plain to the east. Laguna Ridge's climate is cooler than the Middle Reach and most of Santa Rosa Plain, but not as cold as Sebastopol Hills further south. Fog cover gives diurnal swings of 40 degrees during much of the growing season, resulting in wines defined by vibrant acidity. Pinot Noirs are richly structured with brambly, brushy spices (as with Dehlinger, Joseph Swan's Trenton Estate, and Merry Edwards' Klopp Ranch); Chardonnays (notably, Kistler Vineyards' Vine Hill as well as those from Ritchie and Zio Tony vineyards) are often minerally yet opulent and full-scaled. { appellation narration } Winemaker Theresa Heredia of Gary Farrell Winery in Rochioli Vineyard, which is located in the Middle Reach neighborhood. Mike Sullivan is the Winemaker for Benovia Winery in the Santa Rosa Plain neighborhood.