Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/935769
{ SOMMjournal.com } 65 we would like to move away from its posi- tion of being the wine of kings and make it one of the favorite wines of Millennial cocktail lovers, too." Hungary streamlined laws regulating the wines of Tokaj as recently as 2013, making it easier for producers to navigate the hierar - chy of noble sweet wines while maintaining centuries-old traditional wine categories. While aszú berries picked one by one are the source of Eszencia's sky-high residual sugar content—one that can easily exceed 600 grams per liter (and must retain at least 450 grams in that same amount)—they contribute thoroughly unique flavors and characteristics to sev - eral balanced and modern wine styles. Aszú wines with a minimum of 120 grams per liter of residual sugar can be labeled Tokaji Aszú. The term Tokaji Aszú 5 puttonyos applies to sweet wines that have a minimum of 120 grams per liter of residual sugar with minimum 9% ABV. The traditional 6 puttonyos wines, meanwhile, are defined as having a minumum of 150 grams per liter of residual sugar ; the category now includes the former aszú eszencia style, which would be seen on labels prior to 2013. Six puttonyos wines have what could be considered the widest range of style. Tokaji Aszú producers can decide whether to use the 5 or 6 put - tonyos designations on their labels, and all the aszú wines must have at least 19% potential ABV. Partly botrytized clusters are used to make a style known as sweet (édes) Tokaji Szamorodni: a rich, powerful wine with a minimum of 9% ABV. Tokaji Szamorodni is made with bunch selection during harvest; the bunches contain a blend of aszú and non-aszú grapes and matured in Gönci barrels for a minimum of one year some - times under flor, which results in a more oxidative style. At the very apex of the style pyramid sits Eszencia, an elixir that is arguably the most unctuous and sweet grape alcohol in the world. Made solely from the free run juice of the aszú berries, it rarely reaches above 3% ABV (though its alcohol content can range from 1.2–8%). Eszencia also must contain a minimum of 450 grams per liter residual sugar. There is no ceiling on the amount of sugar Eszencia can contain, and 700 grams per liter is not uncommon (the 2000 vintage reached an astonishing 900). The rarity and exquisite nature of this wine style almost guarantees it will be enjoyed in minute quantities—often with a spoon. From left to right, back row: János Jarecsni, Chief Winemaker for Béres Vineyards and Winery; Edit Bai, Chief Winemaker for Chateau Dereszla; Eniko" Magyar, Project Director for Wines of Excellence; Sándor Zsurki, Winemaker at Gróf Degenfeld Winery; and Károly Áts, Chief Winemaker at Grand Tokaj. Front row, from left to right: Péter Molnár, Ph.D., General Manager at Patricius Winery; Attila Balla, President of Vinum Tokaj International; and Zoltán A. Kovács, General Manager at Royal Tokaji Winery. The stages of botrytization over the course of a year.