The SOMM Journal

February / March 2018

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{ SOMMjournal.com }  49 Inama Vigneti di Foscarino 2015 Soave Classico, Veneto ($25) The Inama fam- ily, now in the third generation, has been producing wine for more than 40 years. They farm organically and take a minimalistic approach wherever possible: The result is a portfolio of wines that serve as a genuine reflection of the land, which, in the case of the Vigneti di Foscarino, consists of sun- drenched basaltic lava soils on south-facing vineyards. The sunshine comes through in the glass: The golden yellow Garganega-based wine has aromas of white flowers and wet rocks followed by flavors of honey crisp apple, apricot, lemon curd, and a touch of marzipan. The creaminess of the wine is perfectly balanced with bright stone fruit–like acidity and briny minerality. 93 DALLA TERRA Vietti 2014 Perbacco Nebbiolo, Langhe, Piedmont ($26) Throughout the Vietti history, which dates back to the early 20th century, the winery has been both a trend- setter and a proponent of preserving the past. Being one of the first to produce single- vineyard wines in Piedmont—an example almost all of the top producers in the area have followed—shows the family's apprecia - tion for the subtleties of character gleaned from each individual vineyard. For that reason, each parcel of cherished Nebbiolo is vinified and aged separately up to the point of selection for the various labels. The parcels perfect for earlier release will go into the blend for Perbacco, while those best suited for extended aging will be reserved for the Barolo bottlings. Vietti's Perbacco Nebbiolo has both structure and grace. The nose offers a subtle fragrance of dried violets, Earl Grey tea, and a hint of espresso, while the palate opens up to reveal complex savory flavors like fresh cranberries, cacao nibs, and dried mushrooms. 95 DALLA TERRA Wayfarer 2015 Pinot Noir, Wayfarer Vineyard, Fort-Ross Seaview AVA, Sonoma County ($90) From the rugged Sonoma Coast AVA comes this single-vineyard, estate- grown fruit from a 30-acre property on Goldridge soil dedicated to 16 specially- selected clones. The project began in the late 1990s with Jayson Pahlmayer and is now presided over by his daughter Cleo Pahlmeyer with Winemaker Bibi - ana González Rave. This Pinot Noir is a blend of the vineyard's 12 clones and speaks of big, bold flavors spiced with white pepper on a bed of slate. Deep blue fruit plays high notes with base notes coming from bark and balsamic. This has aging potential. 95 Clos Du Val 2014 Three Graces, Hirondelle Vine- yard, Stags Leap District, Napa Valley ($175) Clos Du Val's Hirondelle Vineyards comprise 34 unique blocks, each with its own rootstock, soil type, and set of clones. Winemaker Ted Henry orchestrates as many as 50 fermentations of Cabernet Sauvignon for this red (99% Cabernet Sauv, 1% Cab Franc). As of 2014, Clos Du Val President and CEO Steve Tamburelli and Director of Operations Jon-Mark Chap - pellet decided to exclusively make estate-grown wines. This limited produc- tion wine is a perfect example, named for the image of the three mythologi - cal beings who have "graced" Clos Du Val's labels since the first vintage in 1972. Tannins are dry and acidity is high. The wine is spirited and energetic in nature, with black inky fruit and violets. Black pepper rears up but opens up to a wider, more generous mouthfeel. There's lots of room to grow here; with age, it will continue to emerge as a beautiful beast. 96 Buty 2014 Rediviva of the Stones, Rockgarden Estate, Walla Walla Valley, WA ($60) A blend of 77% Syrah, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Mourvèdre from the Rocks District of Walla Walla Valley's Milton- Freewater appellation. The vines are grown on basalt cobblestones, hence the name "redeviva of the stones." The scent of ripe cherry liqueur with just an echo of new leather is enticing. On the palate, red licorice adds a creamy texture with persimmons and beets. Laurel and heather add floral tones and the finish has a savory undercore. 93 Buty Winemaker Chris Dowsett with Founder Nina Buty. PHOTO COURTESY OF CLOS DU VAL WINERY Clos du Val Winemaker Ted Henry. SHARON COOMBS, Beverage Director for Craft Los Angeles PHOTO: CAL BINGHAM PHOTO COURTESY OF BUTY GUEST SOMMELIER "Jouror"

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